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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Colin Moorhead
Page Views: 49 total · 1/month
Shared By: Colin Moorhead on May 8, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Headpoint lead ascent of this old Dave Lane top rope. Great moves up a blunt arete on perfect Murrin granite.


Between "Thriller Off the Void" and "Hotwire"


Used several 5-6 tiny brass nuts in the very incipient seam #0 and 1 RP's and a couple of the smallest metolius aid nuts. Placements are very specific and were rehearsed on rappel, an onsight attempt would probably be better off just ditching the rope altogether. A ground fall would be ugly with many tilted boulders, I used several crash pads just in case.


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