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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 201 total · 4/month
Shared By: Chris Keefe on Jan 29, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

The Mechanic combines face climbing with inconsistent crack moves, for an occasionally heady 5.7 lead.

Location

The Mechanic is found to the left of Flat Battery (the leftmost obvious 5.4 crack) on the central section of the Sugarloaf. There's a lovely walk-off to the north.

Protection

Gear is present but rarely a gimme on this climb. A single rack will do. Bolt anchors at the top.

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