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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: John Coope, Karl Winter - 1962
Page Views: 131 total, 2/month
Shared By: Mark van Eijk on Sep 4, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Very engaging and enjoyable climbing on edges and crimps. Exceptionally good movement on steep terrain for the grade. A nice first route for those making the transition from the gym to the outdoors.

Location

On the far right end of the north side of the sugarloaf. Meander up the broken slab before stepping left onto the main wall.

Protection

Gear is sparse, but good. Small cams or nuts with nothing bigger than finger-sized. Most choose to top-rope off the easily accessible hydro tower.

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Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7 PG13
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7 PG13
Gear is small in questionable flakes, but there's a great horn to sling early on and the moves just get easier as you go. Fun! Jul 2, 2016