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Routes in North Face of Pitchoff

Type: Ice, 150 ft
FA: Al Long, Al Rubin, and Dave Hoffman 2/2/75
Page Views: 2,822 total · 23/month
Shared By: Dharma Bum on Aug 14, 2008 with updates from Luc-514
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

40 Opinions

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The climb starts out easy with several ledges and ramps to rest on. The final 30 ft or so is sustained and exposed.


This climb is just left of Central Pillar on the opposite side of the buttress separating the 2 flows and begins at the top of a drainage gully that starts near the north end of the Beaver Pond. Be careful on the approach and descent since the drainage can be quite icy and there was an injury there in 2007 requiring evacuation. At the top of the gully there is a large tree on the left. This is the base of Tendonitis, Arm & Hammer is to the right.


This climb can be thin down low in the early season, so have a few stubbies in the rack or be prepared to run it out on half driven screws. Double ropes are needed for a single rap.


James Maughan
Burnt Hills NY
James Maughan   Burnt Hills NY
There is a rap station far to the right about 2/3 of the way up for descent with a single 60m rope. Mar 5, 2016
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
The rap mid pitchat the far right is off a dead tree which might not be safe, it also can't be reached from the top using a single 70m.
From the top to the climb you can rap with a single 70m to the belay/rap anchor on top of Tendonitis and rap down to the ground though I was a meter short, might not be a problem when there's a thick amount of ice at the base.

We were simu-climbing the last 10 feet to reach the top anchor with a 70m! Nov 19, 2017

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