Type: Trad, TR, Ice, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 44.25022, -73.87088
FA: ACB(?) Nick Budka March 9 2025
Page Views: 112 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nick Budka on Mar 9, 2025
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

No clue if this has been led before, brief survey suggested no but I find that hard to believe at such a popular spot, surely someone has messed around on it on the sharp end. A very rare forming and easy to knock off 20’ tall pillar/hanger on the far right side of the harlot flow, look for the crampon scuffs on the slightly overhanging rock wall. Unprotectable until past the crux, very fragile. Step up to the base and tap the tip of your extremely sharp tool into the ice, and scratch a crampon onto the icicle. Steady yourself, lock off, pucker up, rinse and repeat until the ice is solid enough to get some protection in. Then as quickly as it starts, it’s over. Continue up wi3+ steps to trees above. If you top rope it and break it off, don’t feel bad, it isn’t the sickest line ever, but it is fun to dry tool up the wall and pull the overhanging ice. I don’t know how to grade such strenuous and short climbs. Solid wi6 difficulty packed into 20’ of unprotectable lowball climbing, so wi5+? Wi6-? Idk, hard and fragile, but very short and only a little dangerous. 

Location Suggest change

Harlot wall, right end, last climbable drip. The super skinny one. 15’ Right of deadline, mixed options on the wall if the icicle isn’t down. 

Protection Suggest change

Screws for the top, a short one for the top of the pillar.

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