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Routes in North Face of Pitchoff
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Arm & Hammer WI3+ |
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Central Pillar of Pitchoff WI4 |
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Deadline WI4 R |
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Emerald City T WI4+ |
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Eye of the Needle WI3 |
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Hammond Egger T WI3+ |
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Hanging Spoons T WI5 |
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Harlot WI3+ |
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Moss Ghyl WI3 |
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Rock Ghyll WI4 M3 |
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Screw and Climaxe WI3+ |
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Sticks in Stones T M6 |
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Tendonitis WI3+ |
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Weeping Winds WI3+ |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,006 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Dec 25, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Hanging Spoons is a column which drips over a high overhang near the top of the cliff left of Screw and Climaxe. In rare conditions, this hanging column touches down and becomes a pillar; in these conditions, it is not to be missed.
The original ascent climbed the back rock wall to reach the pillar. In Mellor's ice guide, he theorized that if the pillar ever touched down, it would be the hardest ice climb in the Adirondacks.
P1 WI3: Start up a steep, 15'-tall wall, then run up a low-angle slab to belay on the left in some trees. Tuck well into the trees to avoid ice from the column above.
P2 WI5: Continue up the slab to the column, and climb this (crux) to the top.
To descend, rappel the route.
The original ascent climbed the back rock wall to reach the pillar. In Mellor's ice guide, he theorized that if the pillar ever touched down, it would be the hardest ice climb in the Adirondacks.
P1 WI3: Start up a steep, 15'-tall wall, then run up a low-angle slab to belay on the left in some trees. Tuck well into the trees to avoid ice from the column above.
P2 WI5: Continue up the slab to the column, and climb this (crux) to the top.
To descend, rappel the route.
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