Type: Sport, TR, 42 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
Page Views: 1,013 total · 8/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Direct (right) start to Magie Noire, with four bolts, joining Magie Noire over the lip of the prow/jutting roof feature. This is the eighth route in from the left, or second from the right.

I put the first bolt so you can stand on the ground and clip it to protect the opening moves. Use this, or use it to auger up and pre-clip the second, or skip this and just clip the second. Choose your own adventure....

Boulder, shouldery, on nice blue-and-black rock reminiscent of the Winchester Cave at Rifle.

Location

Right side of the Stepping Stones sport crag.

Protection

7 bolts plus two-bolt anchors.

Photos

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Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
The crux is low (at the 2nd bolt) and thereafter the difficulty eases considerably. Getting off the ground may be hard for the short; at 6'1", I could just reach the starting crimper; others will have to use poor intermediates with poor feet. The crux moves are interesting; look for the hard-to-see R sidepull right of bolt 2. A modified kneebar (more like a knee sidepull) may help exiting the crux. Clearing the roof is fun but much easier than the crux grade. Sep 25, 2008