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Routes in Stepping Stones
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Bruno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cave Problem V8 7B |
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Con-Sessions V4 6B |
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Contortionist's Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Barrio Traverse V9 7C |
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El Gallito S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gravel Pilot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Magie Noire S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Magie Trad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pinche Guey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Québec Connection T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stepping Stones T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Warlock Pinche S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Warlock Pinchers S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9871, -105.4384 |
| FA: | Larry Dalke, 1960s |
| Page Views: | 953 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Aug 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock opened 5/19/25.
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Stepping Stones face has always looked appealing from the road, but I'm afraid it deserves a bomb. It's dirty at the bottom, loose at the top, and non-descript but tolerable in the middle. The cracks are poorly defined, so gear placements are not obvious and are scarce, although sufficient. It may be worth doing if you're an adventure climber looking for a new crag to climb or are training for the Eiger. When I apologized to my partner Jana for taking her on this climb she said, "it's not bad." So maybe it's not quite as bad as I make it out to be.
Start: Rossiter just says, in effect, "There's a route somewhere here", and that the right hand start is harder than his 5.7 guess at a rating. On the right side of the crag is a huge roof above a ledge that slants up to the right. There's a lot of chalk on this, apparently from boulderers. Left of this is a steep broken wall with various bulges and overhangs. Left of that is a large left facing corner, and left of that is a steep and overhanging face with 3 bolt routes on its left side. The route we did starts at the large left facing corner. Alternate starts would be a tapering notch in the overhangs right of our start or a stepped right facing corner right of that and left of the huge chalked roof. Both of these are harder than they look (I tried the right hand start, and it's about 5.9 if you diagonal in from the left or harder if you climb the overhangs directly).
The climb: From the large left facing corner walk right on a ledge or climb to this ledge from below. Traverse right across a short steep wall to gain the main face. Climb more or less straight up aiming for the left edge of the large overhangs at the top passing a small overhang and staying left of a right facing corner. There is a good ledge even with the bottom of the orange overhangs that you can belay from. Communication was difficult due to car noise and the overhangs at the bottom, so we belayed here. Continue up just left of the orange overhangs, passing some scary blocks. Angle a bit right into a short right facing corner at the very top. Step right and back left to the summit boulders.
Descent: Walk back a short ways, traverse left, then scramble down the first reasonable-looking gully.
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