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Routes in Stepping Stones

Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Barrio V8-9 7B+
El Gallito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gravel Pilot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Magie Noire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinche Guey S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Québec Connection T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stepping Stones T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Variation S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warlock Pinche S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warlock Pinchers S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bruno Haché, Tomas Ryan
Page Views: 115 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bruno Hache on Aug 16, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Fun, overhanging dihedral. The crux is at the first bolt with a long reach to a small, slopy crimp, but it is sustained until above the second bolt. Interesting stemming moves and body tension are required for a successful ascent. Nice big holds from the second bolt to the top anchor.

Location

Walk west after the Nip and Tuck pull out, walk across the guard rail on your right, pass the El Barrio boulder cave, then go up the short loose talus. This wall is Stepping Stones. Find the first dihedral on "somewhat" better rock; you can't miss it.

Protection

This is a mixed route, three bolts and 3-4 gear placements plus the 2 bolts top anchor. It requires 3-4 cams from the gray Camalot to the blue Camalot. The first bolt was added after the FA due to a potential fall on a ledge at the crux.

Special thanks to Pebby Johns for her help when adding the first bolt.

Photos

Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Nice mixed route. It's still a bit dirty at the top. You only need a couple of pieces of gear on easy trad until the first bolt, and then the rest of the climb is protected by bolts. I didn't do the crux move as shown in the picture; I moved left into the corner, turning my right hand from a Gaston into a push move to gain the undercling on the left. I felt the moves were more like 5.10. Interesting moves requiring good foot placement. I stayed under the flake at the top and clipped from the left side of it, but I suppose you might be able to jam in the crack above the flake. Sep 25, 2008