Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Stepping Stones

Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Barrio V8-9 7B+
El Gallito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gravel Pilot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Magie Noire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinche Guey S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Qu├ębec Connection T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stepping Stones T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Variation S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warlock Pinche S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warlock Pinchers S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 168 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris O'Connor on Jul 13, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is the 2nd route to the left of Magie Noire.

Location

This is on the Northwest of Stepping Stones.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Hey Dan -- it would be a funner route if less runout. I didn't put it up, no. Maybe Bruno Hache? Or it might have been there before he added his climbs. Not sure.... Jul 17, 2014
D@n Morta
Boulder, CO
D@n Morta   Boulder, CO
A lower first bolt and another bolt below the tricky stem would make this route a lot more enjoyable. I'd be happy to do it with the permission of the first ascent party. Anyone know who that might be? Samet? Jul 16, 2014
Hey Topher: I'm not sure who did the FA (maybe Chris O'Connor, who submitted it, or Bruno Hache?), but anyway my vote would be to move the bolts to make it safer, in line with the rest of this good little sport wall. Thanks for trundling those death blocks--it needed to happen! May 23, 2012
The bolting on this used to feel just fine, but I pried off two huge flakes, one before the first bolt, and one before the roof. The climbing is more continuous and safer now, but it does feel kind of sketchy, especially climbing off the ground to the first bolt with a lousy landing. Would the FA crew consider re-bolting the lower half to suit the climb without the massive time-bomb jugs it used to have?

Seems like adding a low bolt and then lowering the bolt below the roof a few inches so it could be clipped before the tricky stem would set it up nicely. May 23, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
"Hard to read finish".
Amen.... May 17, 2012
Chris Archer
  5.11c PG13
Chris Archer  
  5.11c PG13
Quality climbing slightly marred by unnecesarily intimidating bolting. Hard to read finish. Felt like 11d on sight; 11b red point when you know where to go. May 17, 2012
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Great route. The best part is the super-stem to move right along the bolt line. The crux is hanging on to one of the slopers at the top to clip the anchors. I chose the sloper off to the right. May 5, 2012
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Pretty sweet route. It definitely puts some air in between you and the bolt below you especially going to the anchors. Just the way I like it. Sep 9, 2008