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Routes in Stepping Stones

Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Barrio V8-9 7B+
El Gallito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gravel Pilot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Magie Noire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinche Guey S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Québec Connection T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stepping Stones T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Variation S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warlock Pinche S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warlock Pinchers S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bruno Haché, Pebby Johns
Page Views: 1,287 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bruno Hache on Aug 23, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The start is bouldery in nature. Although rock quality is questionable, this route offers nice powerful and sustained face moves all the way up to the crux at 4th and 5th bolt. Worth 3 stars but deserves only 2 stars due to rock quality. Body positioning and precise slopy smearing is key to a successful ascent.

Location [Suggest Change]

Walk west after the Nip and Tuck pull out, walk across the guard rail on your right, pass the El Barrio boulder cave, then go up the short loose talus. This is the Stepping Stones crag. Past the Quebec Connection dihedral, Magie Noire is the obvious, black streak on the left, at the right edge of the pile of overhanging, stacked blocks.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts and a top anchor.

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Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Fun moves. I found this easier than the 5.11s to the left (Turkey Neck Direct and El Gallito). Make sure to avoid the seemingly out-of-place bolt to the left--this bolt is for the Warlock Pincers / Pinche Guey linkup. The upper half of the route is shared with Warlock Pincers. I thought the rock quality was good. May 21, 2012
The opening moves over a bulge are fun. However, when you look down from above, you see that the whole 5-by-6-foot bulge has a crack going all the way around it. If it were to come off onto a climber yarding on it, it would be the big pancake. Jul 6, 2013

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