Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Stepping Stones

Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Barrio V8-9 7B+
El Gallito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gravel Pilot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Magie Noire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinche Guey S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Qu├ębec Connection T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stepping Stones T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Variation S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warlock Pinche S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warlock Pinchers S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
Page Views: 145 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Turkey Neck Direct

This climb is one route left of El Gallito. Alternately, it's the fourth route in from the left. Climb past four bolts in the nice, white, calcified rock to the base of the big, stair-stepped roof. Three bolts and some tricky cruxes get you past the various lips. I put the fifth and sixth bolts close together so you wouldn't come slamming into the vert wall under the roof. Both are clippable on lead.

This had anchors up top but didn't seem to have seen any action -- thanks, whoever put the anchors in.

You **can** climb a bit right of the sixth bolt through that crux, onto the "guano block." Come back left to finish, on the "turkey neck." You can also go direct with good beta.

It is a good, pumpy route at the grade.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
Excellent climb. The vertical face climbing past 2nd bolt to 4th bolt is 5.11b & quite fun. Then shake out under the roof before a tricky, powerful crux. The roof crux has sloping pinch holds, sidepulls, & a dyno to the turkey neck jug. Still tricky past the last bolt. Worth doing & repeating. May 7, 2017
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
This is a good route, but it is harder than it looks from the bottom. The middle section lacks positive holds. At the first roof, I did go a little right to get a ticked sidepull to be able to stand. Getting through the last roof to the turkey neck is the crux. Unfortunately, my only beta is "use your 6'6" wingspan to reach past the terrible slopers and get your fingertips on the turkey neck." May 5, 2012