Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
Page Views: 1,827 total · 13/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Boulder up to the same jug system you'd grab to start Magie Noire, then head left and straight up the blankish face to the base of the hanging roof. Blocky, pinchy, Rifle-like moves get you through this, then a jug run to the anchors, up over the lip of the wall.

It overhangs 10 feet in 45, with sustained moves -- anomalous for Boulder Canyon and a good pump. If you fall off, maybe you need to "pinche" little harder.

Location

This is one route right of El Gallito, or one route left of Magie Noire. It is the sixth route in from the left.

Protection

6 bolts to 2-bolt anchors with links. Thanks to Bruno for having installed the anchors and letting me finish the route.

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