Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Warlock Pinchers

5.12a, Sport, TR, 42 ft (13 m),  Avg: 2 from 16 votes
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Stepping Stones
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed. DetailsDrop down

Description

Direct (right) start to Magie Noire, with four bolts, joining Magie Noire over the lip of the prow/jutting roof feature. This is the eighth route in from the left, or second from the right.

I put the first bolt so you can stand on the ground and clip it to protect the opening moves. Use this, or use it to auger up and pre-clip the second, or skip this and just clip the second. Choose your own adventure....

Boulder, shouldery, on nice blue-and-black rock reminiscent of the Winchester Cave at Rifle.

Location

Right side of the Stepping Stones sport crag.

Protection

7 bolts plus two-bolt anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Neilson
Boulder
[Hide Comment] The crux is low (at the 2nd bolt) and thereafter the difficulty eases considerably. Getting off the ground may be hard for the short; at 6'1", I could just reach the starting crimper; others will have to use poor intermediates with poor feet. The crux moves are interesting; look for the hard-to-see R sidepull right of bolt 2. A modified kneebar (more like a knee sidepull) may help exiting the crux. Clearing the roof is fun but much easier than the crux grade. Sep 25, 2008
Mike Lewis
Superior, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Two options: 1) go directly up the bolt line from the ground using crimps, an undercling, and gastons through the first 3 bolts; this is the harder option, maybe 12a-b? 2) off the ground, go right to the obvious jugs, and make a big move up to another good jug-ledge to reach the 3rd bolt; 11+ maybe. Both are fun. Feb 5, 2023