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Routes in Bolt Slab

Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stud Muffin Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 999 total · 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 25, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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7 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

A thoroughly enjoyable jaunt up the Bolt Slab using a thin crack for gear.

Scramble up some blocky, lower-angled rock to the base of the slab proper (you can belay either from here or from lower down, below the blocky stuff).

Climb a pedestal on the left and start upwards, following the thin crack that starts just to the right of the pedestal. Put a nut in the small crack whenever you can as it gets a little strenuous with poor feet in sections and you wonÂ’t want to stop.

Eventually reach some larger handholds and then the left side of the slab. From here the climbing is much easier to the bolted anchor, with readily available protection.

Location [Suggest Change]

The left side of the west-facing slab. Climb a pedestal at the base of the slab on the left, and then head up the thin crack just to the right of the pedestal.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A set of nuts with extras in the smaller sizes, and a medium cam or two. Bolted anchors.

Photos

Ky Watson
Provo Utah
  5.10a
Ky Watson   Provo Utah
  5.10a
love this route! it looks scary but there is lots of good pro once you get to the crack and for the crux. fun balancy climbing through the crux then easy 5.7 climbing to the top. I think this the best 5.10 trad route in the canyon. Mar 31, 2018
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
5.10b
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
5.10b
Surprising that this doesn't have more ticks, but that's probably because there just aren't as many trad climbers in RC as there should be. I've walked past this thing so many times and thought "man that looks HARD, no way it's a .10a. Next time." Well I finally got around to it today, and yeah it was hard, but not as hard as it looked from the ground. Pretty sure this was my first time onsighting 5.10 on gear, so that's pretty neat. The crux for me was taking the time to protect myself. I don't have a ton of experience climbing above such small gear, so I sewed up the bottom section and almost ran out of pieces because it takes such tiny stuff. Bring your smallest of stoppers and don't expect to fit anything bigger than a 0 Metolius in the lower crack. Up higher I also placed a #2 BD, another stopper, and a 1 and 2 Metolius. Apr 5, 2018

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