Avg: 3.3 from 17 votes
Routes in Bolt Slab
|Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Sport, TR, 70 ft|
|FA:||Miller and Ward, 1976|
|Page Views:||3,471 total, 20/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Jul 30, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionI'll probably roast for giving a clip-up like this three stars, but I'll never forget getting on it in 1985 or 1986 for the first time and loving it. For whatever reason, we had decided that this was the day to try and find out what the big boys were doing. But how to do that without getting totally waxed by the route? Grapevine beta and a hand-drawn xerox were the ticket to the world's safest bolt ladder, and we had no end of praise for the guys who had stitched it up.
Laboratory safe 5.12 climbing on crisp edges awaits the timid and faint of heart. A burn through Meadow Muffin a few years ago suggested that most of the climbing was actually middle 5.11, perhaps cruxy down low, but highly continuous.
If you are busting into 5.12, I can't imagine a better clip-up to do it on. What a gas!
Protection10 modern bolts plus 4 old quarter-inchers. It isn't necessary to clip the old bolts if leading this free.