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Routes in Bolt Slab

Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,779 total, 15/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A stiff, overhanging quartzite route with crack jamming, face climbing, and a bit of balancy stemming.

Start up easy, blocky terrain at the left of the Bolt Slab’s North Face and reach the roof with two more-or-less hand-sized, parallel cracks. Follow these cracks up a bit and then bear right a little.

Clip two fixed pins and head farther right and up through overhanging, strenuous territory to the larger, broken crack. Follow this up and around to the east side and the anchors.

Location

At the left side of the Bolt Slab’s North Face. A roof with two parallel hand-cracks above is the obvious marker.

Protection

Stoppers, small to medium cams, 2 fixed pins, slings for horns, hangers-and-rings anchors.

Photos

Despite the apparent confusion this route seems to be causing. I loved it! Fun crack climbing to a really cool upper face. I remember the upper face being a bit pumpy. May 21, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Hey Christian, looks like I don't have to go do it again. Darren K. says that the line I did is Pregnant Wildebeest; the line you did is a .10a called Two to Tango (at least that's what Pedersen, et al. always called it). I'll update the topo one of these days with it and with Darren's variant finish to Wildebeest (called Breech Baby, .10d). May 15, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Sheesh, you mean I have to go do it again? (Darren told me about his line, but he implied it was just a .10d variation straight up from the pins). May 9, 2008