Avg: 2 from 18 votes
Routes in Bolt Slab
|Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||1,626 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Aug 28, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionClimb up 10 feet or so of easy fifth class terrain on jugs to a ledge. Start up the gently tapering chimney.
Above the chimney the Ruckman guide shows the route traversing right to join up with Double Jam but we climbed it "straight" up (it actually trends a bit left) following the same crack system in which we started. The pro does get a bit worse this way.
The Ruckman guide says this route is "best saved for those days when one is feeling thin", but I just hopped out of the chimney and stemmed across it on the face when it had narrowed enough to have to start groveling. In other words, I didn't find this route at all strenuous.
Walk off or rappel from the bolted anchors.
ProtectionMedium and large nuts, small and medium cams. Bolted anchor at the top. The pro is solid and easy to come by until a little ways past the chimney. If you follow the starting crack system the pro gets a little harder to come by and some of it is a little suspect (hollow-sounding rock).
The bolted anchors are easily reached from the top for top roping.