Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,716 total · 12/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Climb up 10 feet or so of easy fifth class terrain on jugs to a ledge. Start up the gently tapering chimney.

Above the chimney the Ruckman guide shows the route traversing right to join up with Double Jam but we climbed it "straight" up (it actually trends a bit left) following the same crack system in which we started. The pro does get a bit worse this way.

The Ruckman guide says this route is "best saved for those days when one is feeling thin", but I just hopped out of the chimney and stemmed across it on the face when it had narrowed enough to have to start groveling. In other words, I didn't find this route at all strenuous.

Walk off or rappel from the bolted anchors.

Location

Located on the north face of Bolt Slab is an obvious chimney.

Protection

Medium and large nuts, small and medium cams. Bolted anchor at the top. The pro is solid and easy to come by until a little ways past the chimney. If you follow the starting crack system the pro gets a little harder to come by and some of it is a little suspect (hollow-sounding rock).

The bolted anchors are easily reached from the top for top roping.

Photos

I agree with Perin. Piece of cake line. Mar 12, 2009
Thomas Holmes
Utah
  5.8-
Thomas Holmes   Utah
  5.8-
Better then it looks. Gear is obvious. Listen to your placements, what looked to be promising often sounded hollow. Worth climbing... Sep 3, 2012
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.7
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.7
Much of the crack was pretty dirty and loose. Be careful where you place your gear. If this route saw more traffic and cleaned up a bit it would be a lot more enjoyable. Aug 24, 2017