Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim Downs, Lynn Miobas, 1970
Page Views: 1,131 total · 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A fun, but committing route up the left side of the Bolt Slab.

Scramble up some blocky, lower-angled rock to the base of the slab proper (you can belay either from here or from lower down, below the blocky stuff).

Climb a pedestal on the left and start upwards, eventually reaching the left arete and easier climbing to chain anchors.

Head towards the left edge of the slab via a left-angling, broken crack that peters out at the arete leaving you with limited (and marginal) protection options for a while. Fortunately, however, there is a fixed pin around the arete that can be clipped with a double-length runner.

The thin (approximately ¼") crack about ten feet from the left edge is Two-Nut Muffin that offers protection but harder climbing, and keeps you away from the left edge longer than Sky Hook

Once reaching the left edge the climbing is easier and continues on mostly large holds while following a broken crack system to the bolted anchor.

Location

The left side of the west-facing slab. Climb a pedestal at the base of the slab on the left, and then head up.

Protection

A set of nuts (with an emphasis on small nuts), and small to medium cams. Runners, including a double-length runner for a fixed pin around the edge if you go that way. Bolted anchor.

Photos