Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in Bolt Slab
|Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Jim Downs, Lynn Miobas, 1970|
|Page Views:||931 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Apr 24, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA fun climb up the left side of the Bolt Slab.
Scramble up some blocky, lower-angled rock to the base of the slab proper (you can belay either from here or from lower down, below the blocky stuff).
Climb a pedestal on the left and start upwards, eventually reaching the left arete and easier climbing to chain anchors.
Head towards the left edge of the slab via a left-angling, broken crack that peters out at the arete leaving you with limited protection options for a while. Fortunately, however, there is a fixed pin around the arete that can be clipped with a double-length runner.
The thin (approximately ¼") crack about ten feet from the left edge is Two-Nut Muffin that offers protection but harder climbing, and keeps you away from the left edge longer than Sky Hook
Once reaching the left edge the climbing is easier and continues on mostly large holds while following a broken crack system to the bolted anchor.