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Routes in Bolt Slab

Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim Downs, Lynn Miobas, 1970
Page Views: 931 total, 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A fun climb up the left side of the Bolt Slab.

Scramble up some blocky, lower-angled rock to the base of the slab proper (you can belay either from here or from lower down, below the blocky stuff).

Climb a pedestal on the left and start upwards, eventually reaching the left arete and easier climbing to chain anchors.

Head towards the left edge of the slab via a left-angling, broken crack that peters out at the arete leaving you with limited protection options for a while. Fortunately, however, there is a fixed pin around the arete that can be clipped with a double-length runner.

The thin (approximately ΒΌ") crack about ten feet from the left edge is Two-Nut Muffin that offers protection but harder climbing, and keeps you away from the left edge longer than Sky Hook

Once reaching the left edge the climbing is easier and continues on mostly large holds while following a broken crack system to the bolted anchor.

Location

The left side of the west-facing slab. Climb a pedestal at the base of the slab on the left, and then head up.

Protection

A set of nuts (with an emphasis on small nuts), and small to medium cams. Runners, including a double-length runner for a fixed pin around the edge if you go that way. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Perin, I looked at my "guidebook in work" description and the FA was Jim Downs and Lynn Miobas in 1970!!!
This ascent predates every route on Bolt Slab, making it the first route on Bolt Slab that was led from the bottom to the top. Apr 25, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Rock Canyon Loremaster Darren Knezek has consulted the ancient texts and declared that this climb is Sky Hook and predates Two-Nut Muffin by a decade or so. I have altered the name and description accordingly. Apr 24, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
A really good climb. I've done it via the thin crack, and I remember thinking that it definitely seemed like 5.10a. The protection is small but there. My buddy fell after getting a piece or two in and nearly decked--the tiny gray Metolius TCU saved him (though it was severely bent from then on...). The climb definitely eases up after the first part. Apr 24, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
After looking at the Ruckman guide at home after climbing this route, it seems the first option in my description above is what the guidebook describes. I went the second way described and it didn't seem to be quite as hard as 5.10a anywhere, instead maybe 5.8. (The thin crack looks like fun and I think I'll go back and try it another time).

I used several small nuts from a #4 up to a #7 BD, and a #3 BD micronut. I also used a #2 tricam, #.4 C4, a #.75 C4, and #1.75 DMM. There are a couple of places that would take larger cams (probably a #3 C4) but I didn't carry anything larger than a #2.5 DMM. Apr 24, 2008