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Routes in Bolt Slab

Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stud Muffin Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,271 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jason Billings on Jul 2, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is a great little route usually offering shade from the afternoon sun. It can be easily viewed by looking up while standing in front of The Kitchen.

Belay from the ground, or there is another ledge that can be acquired by making two 5.5 moves. However, this ledge is small enough that it would require an anchor to be built. After this ledge the wall slopes out and the holds are funny; it takes about two or three moves to get through it. This is the definite crux; the rest of the climb is significantly easier, but still very good.

Protection

Take a full rack with you. Although this route isn't long we placed everthing from nuts to medium sized cams.

Photos

Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.8-
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.8-
I mostly used the right crack for jamming and the left crack for gear. I used 4 #.3 C4s, 1 #.4 C4, 1 #.75 C4, and a red #1 C3 near the top. This route really takes all sizes and I could have easily used #4 C4 in several places. Long runners/slings definitely will help reduce rope drag! Jul 28, 2012
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.8
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.8
Pretty cruiser 5.8. The crux comes down low as you get over the initial bulge using fairly secure hand jams. After that you can choose to jam or just use the plethora of hug jugs and face holds. To echo the previous comment, there are so many options for gear really anything will fit. Singles from #.75-#3 plus a set of nuts will be more than enough to adequately protect this, but bring bigger or smaller cams if that's more your style. Apr 5, 2018

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