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Routes in Bolt Slab

Chimney Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Refused T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meadow Muffin S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two to Tango T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two-Nut Muffin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FFA: Jeff Pedersen (Yo Yo Style) FFA to upper anchors: Bart Dahnke
Page Views: 840 total, 8/month
Shared By: Erik S. Gillis on Oct 11, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Awesome route. Fight through the first 15-20 feet of hard overhanging finger locks. Pro during this section is important because if not done properly a ground fall is possible. After the first section enjoy some easy, but overhanging, face climbing until you get to the anchors. It is possible to continue from there, or so i have heard, at 5-10a with gear. I have not tried it yet.

Location

The first crack on the north facing side of bolt slab when you come around the corner from Meadow Muffin.

Protection

a set of C3s, small to medium stoppers, and i used one orange metolius master cam. Also you will need one draw for the pin at the top. An medium sized off-set cam might be nice too.

Photos

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Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I was referring to not using holds on the arete to place gear from or climb on, not placing gear on the arete. Good luck finding gear placements anywhere other than the crack; it has been a while since I have been on it, but I don't remember finding other gear. Sorry that my original statement was confusing.

Also I wouldn't recommend climbing this route if you were coming straight out of the gym anyway, it requires some real thought and technical knowledge of gear placement or a ground fall would be probable.

Thanks Perin, I totally agree. Like so many other routes in Rock Canyon this one has some real history! My dad was one of the first people to project it in the late 70's, so it was really significant to me when I sent it. Apr 9, 2016
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
"The team in charge" would rather respect the history of the route.

Climb the crack however you want.

However, if you want to climb the .11d named Dazed and Refused as established by Pedersen and Dahneke, then you'll need to artificially avoid the eliminates.

In antediluvian Rock Canyon a number of routes were established with rules to make the routes harder. This was done in those days because the climbers were looking to push themselves into harder grades that the local rock didn't otherwise offer. Mar 27, 2016
emonie  
so the team in charge of this internet portal would rather maintain their idea of how the route should go by warning climbers of what i assume are perfectly good placements "off route"?

this ain't the gym.. it's not bouldering.. I can't believe i'm even commenting here but i couldn't believe what I had read either.. Mar 27, 2016
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
One more quick important note Darren wanted me to mention, the far left arete is off for anything. Especially to place gear from, gear is probably the hardest part about this route. Oct 13, 2009