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Two-Nut Muffin

5.10a, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Rock Canyon > Bolt Slab

Description

A thoroughly enjoyable jaunt up the Bolt Slab using a thin crack for gear.

Scramble up some blocky, lower-angled rock to the base of the slab proper (you can belay either from here or from lower down, below the blocky stuff).

Climb a pedestal on the left and start upwards, following the thin crack that starts just to the right of the pedestal. Put a nut in the small crack whenever you can as it gets a little strenuous with poor feet in sections and you wonÂ’t want to stop.

Eventually reach some larger handholds and then the left side of the slab. From here the climbing is much easier to the bolted anchor, with readily available protection.

Location

The left side of the west-facing slab. Climb a pedestal at the base of the slab on the left, and then head up the thin crack just to the right of the pedestal.

Protection

A set of nuts with extras in the smaller sizes, and a medium cam or two. Bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

<em>Bolt Slab</em>, West Face<br>
5 [[106148312]] 5.8<br>
6 [[106149784]] 5.10a<br>
7 Buttered Muffin 5.12b<br>
8 [[105739967]] 5.12a<br>
9 Electric Ladyland 5.10<br>
<br>
"M" denotes manky, 1/4" bolts.
[Hide Photo] Bolt Slab, West Face 5 Sky Hook 5.8 6 Two-Nut Muffin 5.10a 7 Buttered Muffin 5.12b 8 Meadow Muffin 5.12a 9 Electric Ladyland 5.10 "M" denotes manky, 1/4" bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ky Watson
Provo Utah
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] love this route! it looks scary but there is lots of good pro once you get to the crack and for the crux. fun balancy climbing through the crux then easy 5.7 climbing to the top. I think this the best 5.10 trad route in the canyon. Mar 31, 2018
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Surprising that this doesn't have more ticks, but that's probably because there just aren't as many trad climbers in RC as there should be. I've walked past this thing so many times and thought "man that looks HARD, no way it's a .10a. Next time." Well I finally got around to it today, and yeah it was hard, but not as hard as it looked from the ground. Pretty sure this was my first time onsighting 5.10 on gear, so that's pretty neat. The crux for me was taking the time to protect myself. I don't have a ton of experience climbing above such small gear, so I sewed up the bottom section and almost ran out of pieces because it takes such tiny stuff. Bring your smallest of stoppers and don't expect to fit anything bigger than a 0 Metolius in the lower crack. Up higher I also placed a #2 BD, another stopper, and a 1 and 2 Metolius. Apr 5, 2018