Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob D & Dan Brockway
Page Views: 1,541 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.

Location

On a pillar of rock 40 feet right of Isn't Life Strange

Protection

Six clips, green, red and yellow camalots and quickdraws for the ring anchors.

Photos

ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
I found just having the draw hung was enough to make the clip reasonable. I also assume that the route setter was stick clipping the first bolt or putting in pro before attempting to hang the draw. I felt on the start if you stayed just right of the first two bolts it felt safe and pretty cool. My partner went left at second bolt, and it looked really unpleasant and not as safe. We didn't know it was a mixed climb and did the crack section to the last bolt with no pro, which is dead easy, but a fall would be brutal. As I was attempting to clip the last draw before the anchor, I stood up and hit my head on the roof almost blowing my feet and taking the fall. Thank God I didn't!!!! Bring The GEAR or be prepared to climb 5.6R crack, and watch your head before the clip. Yikes!!!

I'd give it THREE STARS for an adventure route. It gets sun late. Nov 16, 2016
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???).

Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it. Oct 8, 2012
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more. Apr 4, 2011
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
 
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
 
You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route. May 9, 2009
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move.
Definitely not a bomb. Sep 27, 2008
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean. May 15, 2008