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Routes in Middle Animal World

Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob D & Dan Brockway
Page Views: 1,622 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.

Location

On a pillar of rock 40 feet right of Isn't Life Strange

Protection

Six clips, green, red and yellow camalots and quickdraws for the ring anchors.

Photos

Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean. May 15, 2008
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move.
Definitely not a bomb. Sep 27, 2008
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
 
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
 
You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route. May 9, 2009
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more. Apr 4, 2011
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???).

Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it. Oct 8, 2012
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
I found just having the draw hung was enough to make the clip reasonable. I also assume that the route setter was stick clipping the first bolt or putting in pro before attempting to hang the draw. I felt on the start if you stayed just right of the first two bolts it felt safe and pretty cool. My partner went left at second bolt, and it looked really unpleasant and not as safe. We didn't know it was a mixed climb and did the crack section to the last bolt with no pro, which is dead easy, but a fall would be brutal. As I was attempting to clip the last draw before the anchor, I stood up and hit my head on the roof almost blowing my feet and taking the fall. Thank God I didn't!!!! Bring The GEAR or be prepared to climb 5.6R crack, and watch your head before the clip. Yikes!!!

I'd give it THREE STARS for an adventure route. It gets sun late. Nov 16, 2016
Greg Barnes  
 
Loose blocks up high in the crack. Stick clip the first bolt unless you're 6'6". Very contrived, move each of the first bolts a foot or two and you'd have a 5.10b where you wouldn't need a stick clip. Dec 19, 2017
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
There are some dangerous loose blocks in the upper corner, a helmet wouldn't be enough. The only good thing is that they would probably miss the belayer and just hit the trail and then the road. Dec 19, 2017

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