Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob D & Dan Brockway
Page Views: 1,645 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.


On a pillar of rock 40 feet right of Isn't Life Strange


Six clips, green, red and yellow camalots and quickdraws for the ring anchors.


Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean. May 15, 2008
Boulder, CO
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move.
Definitely not a bomb. Sep 27, 2008
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route. May 9, 2009
Greg D
Greg D   Here
There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more. Apr 4, 2011

Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???).

Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it. Oct 8, 2012
Denver Colorad
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
I found just having the draw hung was enough to make the clip reasonable. I also assume that the route setter was stick clipping the first bolt or putting in pro before attempting to hang the draw. I felt on the start if you stayed just right of the first two bolts it felt safe and pretty cool. My partner went left at second bolt, and it looked really unpleasant and not as safe. We didn't know it was a mixed climb and did the crack section to the last bolt with no pro, which is dead easy, but a fall would be brutal. As I was attempting to clip the last draw before the anchor, I stood up and hit my head on the roof almost blowing my feet and taking the fall. Thank God I didn't!!!! Bring The GEAR or be prepared to climb 5.6R crack, and watch your head before the clip. Yikes!!!

I'd give it THREE STARS for an adventure route. It gets sun late. Nov 16, 2016
Greg Barnes  
Loose blocks up high in the crack. Stick clip the first bolt unless you're 6'6". Very contrived, move each of the first bolts a foot or two and you'd have a 5.10b where you wouldn't need a stick clip. Dec 19, 2017
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
There are some dangerous loose blocks in the upper corner, a helmet wouldn't be enough. The only good thing is that they would probably miss the belayer and just hit the trail and then the road. Dec 19, 2017