Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Animal World

Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan Hare & ?
Page Views: 2,681 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 6, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Start as for Ride My Seesaw and after the second bolt follow the short corner to the off-size finger crack through a small roof and up thin fingers to the anchor.

This is a really good route with good but somewhat strenuous gear placements. Dan rated the route hard 5.10 back in 1979 on the FA but after doing it for a second time thinks it is 5.11...I agree!

Location

As for Ride My Seesaw.

Protection

Gear to a green Camalot.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
A great climb with some crums near the bottom, but great rock the rest of the way.

You can traverse in from the right, past the starting flake on 'Talking Out Of Turn and establish a belay on a few stoppers at the base of this climb.

Carry a rack of nuts, a run of small cams (to 0.75") and a 2-2.5" cam. The crux is getting the feet over the lip on a rounded finger-lock above a good nut (maybe a #5 BD stopper or equiv?) For people with small fingers like mine, the top is not difficult at all, but still needs pro. Doubles in thin fingers cam-size (first-second knuckle) will be useful if you like lots of gear, but are not required.

If this thing continued another 50', it would be a 4-star classic. Sadly, it is a short line. May 18, 2008
david goldstein
  5.11-
david goldstein  
  5.11-
I agree w/ Tony's remark that this would be classic if the good part were maybe twice as long. May 19, 2008
Great climb. The rock and gear are not so good for the first 20 feet, but after the start the climbing and gear are great. Nice and steep. Clipping the first two bolts on the sport climb to the right is a safer alternative, but would change the routes character. 10+/11- Jun 27, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Although I didn't get this clean, I enjoyed the struggle. The moves through the small roof were bizarre for me. This climb is a bit tainted by the more recent bolted route to the right. On the FA it would have been obvious to stem to the right and step right for a rest, but now that the other route is there doing that felt like cheating. But I did it anyway. Apr 25, 2010
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
The finger crack at the top is short but real nice. Jun 17, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a
The crux on this is short but definitely in the 11a range. There are only a few moves at this level, but they definitely exist. Mar 7, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11b
This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon. May 3, 2014

More About Wine and Roses

Printer-Friendly