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Routes in Middle Animal World

Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Bob D and Greg Hand
Page Views: 8,268 total · 63/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 27, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is a great two-pitch or one long pitch route that offers great and varied climbing.

If done in two pitches bring 8 to 9 draws. If doing one pitch bring 14 draws.

Pitch 1: Start left of Isn't Life Strange on a good ledge. Climb up past two bolts in the gold face tending left to a corner. Climb the corner and arete up to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the anchor into another shallow corner. Cool moves lead to a good ledge and small overhang. Climb the overhang on the left and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.

Can be done in one pitch.

A 60-meter rope makes it back to the starting ledge but not the careful lowering.


Just left of "Isn't Life Strange" up the gold wall to a shallow corner. Maybe bring a long sling to clip the third bolt.


12 bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor if done in one pitch.


Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO

Good seeing you on Saturday. Thanks for pointing us in the direction of these new routes. We climbed this one in one long pitch (70 meter rope needed) and it was fantastic. Certainly will get better with more traffic. Would have tried the others in the area had we not lost our sun. The 11d with your draws on it looks stellar too...any idea what the crack to the left (with the obvious pin down low) goes at? Did you put in some anchors for this line?

Sasha Mar 17, 2008
Dan Brockway
Dan Brockway   Boulder
Good route Bob. A really nice addition to the canyon in the 5.10 range.
We did the whole route (12 bolts) with a 60 meter rope but belayed about 10 feet below the first bolt. A 60 meter rope easily makes it from there but as always be careful. Tie a knot in the end of your rope if there is any doubt in your mind. Mar 20, 2008
Bruce Pech
Bruce Pech   Boulder
This should become a Boulder Canyon classic -- lovely position and climbing. The crux corner on the second pitch is tougher than .10b for 5'3" and shorter climbers (my wife was grumbling "sandbag," ".10d," etc. as she reached the anchors). May 5, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
This is a great climb! One of the best 5.10 sport routes I've done in Boulder Canyon. Interesting, exposed, and sustained. I felt the crux (a funky corner just above the mid-way anchor) was about 10c, and may be harder for shorter climbers.

You can get to the starting ledge for this climb in several ways:

1. Climb Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello (9+, bolts) and continue past the two-bolt anchor to a big dead pine tree on a ledge about 70' up.

2. Walk right beneath Laurel & Hardy... for several hundred feet, and find a path cutting back up left to the ledge with the big dead tree.

You can belay by this tree (it is solid enough to be used as an anchor), or scramble up loose ground for 25' to a higher ledge just below the first bolt on the route.

From the higher ledge, it is about 100' to the top anchor. You can lower or rappel with a 60m rope. From the lower ledge with the dead tree, it is about 125' to the top anchor. You would need a 70m rope to lower to here, but be careful if you try this. May 10, 2008
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Bob and Greg,
On the behalf of the climbing community, THANKS.
One of the nicest blend of continuity, just enough run out and length.
One of the best 5.10 in Boulder Canyon.
Will do that route again. It's sooooo good!

An alternative to the 60 m being too short to belay from the ground:
Belay the follower from the second belay top anchor, it's comfy enough.
Bonus: A stunning view across the canyon!
Two rappels will bring you back safely on the ground.

Stay left for the crux move, otherwise it's a dead end/way harder. May 12, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
A good climb, mostly owing to its length. There are still some loose rocks but they are pretty obvious- remember there could be people below and be cautious. Also some suspicious holds (caution, eh?) and including an odd crux hold (flake/pinch/gaston) on the 2nd pitch, probably where Ron mentions the crux in a tight corner. I doubt it will be there forever.
Climb on a 70m to return to the starting ledge by the dead tree with no worries. May 16, 2008
There is a large loose block just waiting to fall about 2 feet down and right of the moves to the touch, but it is too big to lower down with a person carrying it. Trundling is not an option when people are below, like there was today... and who knows, it may hit the highway when it does go. Be very careful up there, and when you pull your rope, the thing is dangerous. Jun 13, 2008
Chris Archer
  5.10b PG13
Chris Archer  
  5.10b PG13
The large loose block right of the anchor is still there, stacked on another loose block. Trundling does not seem like an option regardless of whether there are climbers below as it could easily take the ride to the road. Aug 4, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time.

The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route. Sep 27, 2009

Ok climbing, mostly by virtue of length. The first bolt above the ledge should have been placed so that you can clip it while standing on the boulder. Unfortunately this seems to be a theme for this area of the crag (and GH routes in general). Oct 8, 2012
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Ouch! Oct 8, 2012
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Agreed that it's kinda ridiculous to have to climb off of the boulder to clip that first bolt on the headwall considering that a fall would be really bad there. I clipped some bolt out right then downclimbed and cleaned it. Please add a bolt. Jun 19, 2013
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
A new first bolt has been added. Thanks to Bob & Bruno for doing this. Jun 26, 2013
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
Climbs better as one pitch. A 70m will get you from the rap rings at the top of p1 down past the tree to a dirty ramp closer to the ground trail, so you can avoid much of the class four downclimb if you want. Just be careful not to put the rope over anything sharp and to not get it tangled in the tree limbs when you pull it. Thanks for those bolts, fellas.

Nice and long climb with fantastic views and fun movement. Oct 26, 2013
Boulder, CO
ScoJo   Boulder, CO
The large block is still sitting precariously on a small ledge next to the anchor. This gave me quite a fright when I setting up my rappel. I barely touched it, and it started to fall down. I caught it and tried to set it back in a stable position. I'm surprised it's still there after 6 years or so. I'm not sure if further action should be taken to remove the rock, but people should at least be aware of it (it wasn't mentioned in the guidebook we had).

Otherwise the route was pretty fun. Did it in one pitch with a 70 m. We belayed from the boulder, but I was able to rappel down to the base of upper Animal World. Jun 12, 2014
Evan Anderson
Boulder, CO
Evan Anderson   Boulder, CO
I pulled a giant block off at the 3rd bolt and took a groundfall. Didn't get hurt, but bad belay for sure. There is a lot of bad rock on this climb. WATCH OUT! So yeah, the jug at the 3rd bolt is not there anymore, I don't think it really affected the grade though. I did it with out the jug and finished the climb just fine. Feb 6, 2015
Stan Z
Centennial, CO
Stan Z   Centennial, CO
WARNING: loose block next to anchor. Be really careful. It's a fun climb, but I wouldn't do it again until the block is gone. Apr 24, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
Uber fun route. Very hard to clean on rappel. The deathblock at the belay is clearly marked - easily avoided. Did it in 1 long pitch with a 70m. Well bolted and fun moves - one of the best sport routes I've ever done. May 15, 2017
Jon Dory
Jon Dory  
Thanks, Greg and Bob, for another "perfectly bolted" route. Loved it! Jan 6, 2018
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Very nice route, but be wary of the sharp arete. After clipping bolt 5 long, I inclipped bolt 4 to keep the rope clear of it. May 2, 2018
Nick Wilder
Boulder, CO
Nick Wilder   Boulder, CO  
After a big hold pulled off in 2015, the section just at the third bolt is much harder than before and is now the crux of the route for me, and it's definitely a harder than before. It's very well-protected there though, so don't hesitate, it's a great climb! May 31, 2018

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