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Routes in Middle Animal World

Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Bob D, Vaino Kodas, Greg Hand and Dan Brockway
Page Views: 4,864 total · 37/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 22, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Great technical climbing on small edges and sharp in-cuts. The obvious green and gold face above Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello and just left of a right facing corner (5.7). Take fourteen draws if you are going to do the route in one pitch.

This a very classic route and the upper section is just wild climbing up and over a series of overhangs to a traverse that gets you on the upper headwall.

Climb up the steep thin face making cool, thoughtful moves (5.10c/d) to the first anchor. Belay or continue up and right through the tier overhangs the upper headwall. Climb the headwall past three bolts to the anchor.

Be careful lowering and put a knot in the other end of the rope.

Great route that will get better with more ascents.


On a large ledge above Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello near a large, dead pine tree.


Six clips to first anchor...twelve to the second anchor.


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kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Nice route, Bob. Hard to read, one of the better for the grade in Bo Can., how's about a pitch 2? Mar 3, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
We were at the top starting pitch 2 a few days ago but had a battery problem. It will be done soon. Mar 3, 2008
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Nice work Bob, maybe head up there Sat. a.m? How's the crack on the left side of face, looks hard, 5.10? Mar 12, 2008
Cool route! Upper section is better than the lower. Watch the death block after the first bolt past the lower anchors. Apr 12, 2008
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
Great exposure, varied moves, well-protected - overall an excellent route. Thank you Bob, Vaino and Greg. Apr 24, 2008
Bruce Pech
Bruce Pech   Boulder
The first pitch is tricky and sustained from the 3rd bolt to the anchors -- maybe .10c but it felt more like .10d to me. The wild second pitch is probably .11c onsight (easier once you've worked out the beta). Another excellent addition to Boulder Canyon.

As Chris said, there's a nasty 20"x20" death block to the right of the first bolt on the second pitch. Although it looks like a good stemming foothold, it's completely detached from the wall. Be careful.

A 70m rope isn't mandatory but makes it easy to lower to the dead tree instead of downclimbing from the ledge at the start of the climb.

PS. In light of Bob D's comment, I deleted my remark about Dana's .10c rating. Sorry about that. May 20, 2008
Mark Ferguson
Mark Ferguson  
Thanks Bob D, Vaino and Greg. This route is awesome, one of the best at Animal World. 11c, maybe d, I will go with 11+. It still has a bit of lichen on the upper section but will clean up quickly. Jun 2, 2008
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
Done as a single pitch, this will become the best mid-range 5.11 sport route in Boulder Canyon once the lichen on the upper headwall cleans up a bit. Great position and thought-provoking movement. Out of curiosity, I used the advanced search features of MP to list all the 5.11 sport routes in Boulder Canyon sorted by stars. Nothing on that list is better than this climb. Animal Magnetism probably has a better finale, but over the entire length this route delivers better moves.

Of the 3 separate roof tiers, I think the 1st is hardest and the 3rd is the easiest. The upper headwall looks so blank from the ground, but it has a surprising rail on it that makes the upper headwall moves some of the easier moves on the route.

Use a long runner on the 1st bolt, the midway anchor and the first bolt after that and your rope will run nice and straight.

Great find Bob, Vaino, Greg and Dan! Thanks for the effort too. Jul 11, 2008
R P Finney
Lafayette, Colorado
R P Finney   Lafayette, Colorado
Thank you, Bob, Vaino and Greg. Isn't life Strange is a fantastic climb, 11+ pure fun. Climbing both pitches as one is sustained joy. Oct 26, 2008
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
I only did the first pitch of this route, and found it to be sustained 5.10d. The second pitch we did not do because Maciej pulled off a large chalky block, just by barely touching it. He lowered from the first bolt after the first belay. There was definitely more loose stuff up there. Normal spring climbing stuff, there is a good chance this route has changed a bit with the block that Maciej pulled down. Apr 30, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Pretty fun. The place where the block came off was obvious, and the climbing into the overhang has changed, but it isn't any harder. Yes, the "stump" that is left is semi-detatched and probably will come off too someday after fatigue and freeze/thaw cycles. May 21, 2009
John Rudolph  
Did this route today, lots of fun. The new BC guidebook, and this page for that matter, say you need a 70 meter rope and 14 draws. Neither are true. Once you are on the upper ledge, climb another 10 feet to belay at the base of the climb (great belay seat). You can easily skip the first bolt, then it's only 11 draws to second set of anchors which are about 90 feet from the ground. Highly recommended, needs more traffic to help it finish cleaning up a bit. Sep 29, 2009
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
If you have a 60m follow the above advice, but tie knots in the rope to be sure. You can't reach the big dead pine ledge with a 60 at all. We tied stopper knots in our 60m rope and the climber just untied 10' up and downclimbed a bit, so we could hang out at the big dead pine ledge.

Awesome climbing. Nov 21, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
This is a fun route. The crux roofs remind me of the Gunks. Jan 10, 2010
gregsmiller   Louisville
Fun route with varied movement, I didn't know the grade when I led this, but I would say it's in the 10+ or .11- range, the roof is great fun and all there! Apr 21, 2013
Jon Dory
Jon Dory  
Stellar route! Great movement, hard pulls, good rests - all the ingredients of a must do climb! Jan 6, 2018

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