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Routes in Middle Animal World

Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Paul Pomeroy, Jake Miller, Chris Taylor
Page Views: 1,476 total · 20/month
Shared By: paul pomeroy on Apr 23, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start as for Isn't Life Strange at central Animal World. Clip the first bolt on that route, then lean left and clip a bolt at the base of the clean face. Trend up and right following a thin seam past two more bolts to a small overlap. Clip a bolt above this feature and step left (crux for all but the very tall), then go up the beautiful orange face to a double buttonhead station. Clip these with two long slings and head straight up through a large roof, left to a stance, then up through two smaller overhangs to the anchors on Talking Out of Turn.

Location [Suggest Change]

Split Personality is located on the central Animal World Buttress between Talking Out of Turn to the left and Isn't Life Strange to the right. This route is best approached by hiking almost all the way to Animal World right, then doubling back and up on a faint trail to a large ledge at the base of the route.

Protection [Suggest Change]

11 QDs (including two longer slings) plus two for the anchor.

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I am not trying to be a hater here, but this route is more or less a contrived, squeeze job - at least the bottom half. Not stepping over onto ILS takes almost as much effort as the 5.12 moves themselves! The upper section is pretty cool, although there too you kind of have to force yourself not to bail onto the neighboring 10a to the left. Seems like it could have been done as a variation finish to one of the neighboring routes rather than adding a whole new line of bolts. Just sayin'. Aug 6, 2012
MattL
Boulder, CO
  5.12
MattL   Boulder, CO
  5.12
Excellent addition to the crag! Yes, it might share a hold or two with ILS, but for most part it is an independent line with classic movement. It has a little bit of everything - thin technical slabbing, thuggy roof climbing, and a slopey finishing crux. Well done! Nov 14, 2012
Brett Bessen
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Brett Bessen   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Great, thuggy climbing through the roof. The two buttonheads don't inspire much confidence (though they're probably ok) before starting in on the crux. The best link-up might be to head up Isn't Life Strange, clip the P1 anchors with a long sling, then head into the cool roof. The climbing before the buttonheads is fun, techy, slab climbing that is worth doing at least once, however. Sep 4, 2016

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