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Routes in Middle Animal World

Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Middle Animal World has more excellent sport routes (and some trad, though not as good) above and to the east of Lower Animal World. These are generally much less crowded and feel a little bit more secluded. The routes are lined up along a 10 foot wide ledge that makes a nice perch to watch climbers across the canyon. The area faces south (and a little east) and has a lot of sun.

Getting There

Park in the same pullout as the Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon, the large parking is on the left just after a long sweeping right turn in the road), walk up the road past the Boulderado cliff, and find the trail at the "Slow Vehicles Stay Left" sign. Follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right (look for cairns) above the Boulderado. Cross easy slabs, and go across level-ish terrain until you get to the routes of the Lower Animal World.

Pass all the routes, and when they peter out you will see a blocky gully heading up to the right. Climb up the gully, then go back left to these routes across a 10 foot ledge (many bolts should be visible as you get to the top of the gully. Alternatively, keep walking on a well-defined trail about 100 yards past the lower routes, then head uphill and back left to these routes. This is a safer descent.

L->R:

DD.. Ride My See-saw, 10-, 80', gear & bolts.
EE. Wine & Roses, 10+, 60', gear.
FF. Talking Out Of Turn, 10-, 1-2p, 115', bolts.
GG1. Split Personality, 12, 1p, 95', bolts.
GG2. Isn't Life Strange, 11, 2p, 105', bolts.
HH. POS or P2 of Dihedral, 7, 2p, gear.
II. Crack, 1p, gear.
JJ. Strange Times, 10+, 60', gear & bolts.
KK. The Balance, 11-, 75', gear & bolts.
LL. Hope and Pray, 8, 60', gear & bolts.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Animal World

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 174
Talking Out Of Turn
Sport 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 26
Wine and Roses
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 90
Isn't Life Strange
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 11
Split Personality
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Talking Out Of Turn
 174
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Wine and Roses
 26
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Isn't Life Strange
 90
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Split Personality
 11
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
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