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The Balance

5.11-, Trad, Sport, 75 ft,  Avg: 1.3 from 33 votes
FA: Bob D & Dan Brockway
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Middle Animal World
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.

Location

On a pillar of rock 40 feet right of Isn't Life Strange

Protection

Six clips, green, red and yellow camalots and quickdraws for the ring anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The crux looks easy in this photo and from the ground. It's not.
[Hide Photo] The crux looks easy in this photo and from the ground. It's not.
Above the crux.
[Hide Photo] Above the crux.
Laying off the corner at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Laying off the corner at the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kat A
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean. May 15, 2008
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move.
Definitely not a bomb. Sep 27, 2008
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route. May 9, 2009
Greg D
Here
[Hide Comment] There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more. Apr 4, 2011
slim

  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???).

Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it. Oct 8, 2012
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
[Hide Comment] I found just having the draw hung was enough to make the clip reasonable. I also assume that the route setter was stick clipping the first bolt or putting in pro before attempting to hang the draw. I felt on the start if you stayed just right of the first two bolts it felt safe and pretty cool. My partner went left at second bolt, and it looked really unpleasant and not as safe. We didn't know it was a mixed climb and did the crack section to the last bolt with no pro, which is dead easy, but a fall would be brutal. As I was attempting to clip the last draw before the anchor, I stood up and hit my head on the roof almost blowing my feet and taking the fall. Thank God I didn't!!!! Bring The GEAR or be prepared to climb 5.6R crack, and watch your head before the clip. Yikes!!!

I'd give it THREE STARS for an adventure route. It gets sun late. Nov 16, 2016
[Hide Comment] Loose blocks up high in the crack. Stick clip the first bolt unless you're 6'6". Very contrived, move each of the first bolts a foot or two and you'd have a 5.10b where you wouldn't need a stick clip. Dec 19, 2017
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
[Hide Comment] There are some dangerous loose blocks in the upper corner, a helmet wouldn't be enough. The only good thing is that they would probably miss the belayer and just hit the trail and then the road. Dec 19, 2017