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Routes in Palisades Park

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
April Fools TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boobs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box Lunch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bubba T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buckets T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burly Girls TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cashmere T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corner Arete, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Dancing TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Etheral Cathedral T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face Of A Phantom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire Tower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Nine Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake Face, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flake, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Foton's Finish T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Days Night TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jumpin' Jeff Flash T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kiddie Crack T,TR V0+ 4+
Kodiak Arrest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lead This? TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marginal Monster (M&M) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mickey's Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Micro Gulley TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mister Green Jeans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Little Pocket Frog T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nameless Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night of the climbing dead TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine to Five T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pharaoh's Revenge T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pickin Pockets T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Posey's Pass T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Post Nasal Drip T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R&D T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Bit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeples T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Street Fighting Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stumbling Block T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Three's A Charm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tim's Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tinkerbell TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trivial Pursuit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Arete T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warp Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whip Me, Beat Me T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,700 total, 22/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Diagonal up and left across the face to meet up with the right-facing corner. Follow the corner to the top. For bonus points, when the corner is about to angle off to the left, continue straight up over juggy overhangs. (It's still 5.6.)

Location

On the left end of a small, low-lying ledge on the face to the climber's left of the descent gully on the left side of the Island.

Protection

Standard rack for leading. The usual long slings are required for toproping.

Photos

spellstrike
Duluth
spellstrike   Duluth
Very large rounded weathered block of rock is lose near this route.

There are a pair of anchor bolts probably for this route and this block is 5 ft right and 5ft below of where the bolts are.

Block shifted when I stood on it and I'm a small person. Oct 18, 2017
Significant, annoying, irritating rope drag if runner's aren't used frequently. I.e., quickdraws are not sufficient if you don't want to drag a rope up with you on lead. Rope drag increased by starting right of route to eliminate unprotected crux at bottom. Feb 26, 2015
A great beginner route, but not for a beginning leader. I have put probably 15-20 new or newish climbers on this route, and EVERYONE falls off the beginning. The move getting to the horizontal just under the first small roof is tough. It's steep on small holds and reachy, and you will not have any gear in. If you blow it here you'll take a 5-6ft ground fall, so bring a crash pad. You could always rap down and place that first piece or something, because the rest of the route is great for a beginning leader. This route has a two-bolt anchor. Feb 23, 2014
Ryan Howa
Price, Ut
  5.6
Ryan Howa   Price, Ut
  5.6
The frist piece of grear is the curx. but a beautiful lead for the frist timer. Aug 29, 2008