Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 4,543 total · 32/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Jun 4, 2007 with updates from Paul Wood
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Face climb upwards on reachy horizontals until under the roof. Crux is pulling the roof, in the vicinity of the groove. From here, moderate climbing on jugs to the finger crack and face finish goes to the top. Bail right and surf the flake after the roof if squeamish.

Location

Starts 50' left of the pillar below two large protrusions above - the "boobs".

Protection

Lots of horizontals...Can be well protected with yellow TCU through #1 Camalot plus stoppers. Double up if needed.
Nathan Self
Louisiana
  5.9+
Nathan Self   Louisiana
  5.9+
New anchors at the top. Mar 7, 2012
Siberia
Birmingham, AL
Siberia   Birmingham, AL
All gear had been cleaned as of 3/22/14. Mar 24, 2014
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This is a nice juggy 9. Highly recommended for people who are fairly new to climbing and have good general strength, but not good at crimping or tricky footwork.

Bolts at the top for TRing.

Stuck cam about 20 ft off the deck, horizontal on the right. Out of the way, shouldn't be too big a problem. Jul 26, 2015