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Routes in Palisades Park

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
April Fools TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boobs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box Lunch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bubba T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buckets T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burly Girls TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cashmere T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corner Arete, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Dancing TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Etheral Cathedral T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face Of A Phantom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire Tower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Nine Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake Face, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flake, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Foton's Finish T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Days Night TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jumpin' Jeff Flash T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kiddie Crack T,TR V0+ 4+
Kodiak Arrest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lead This? TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marginal Monster (M&M) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mickey's Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Micro Gulley TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mister Green Jeans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Little Pocket Frog T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nameless Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night of the climbing dead TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine to Five T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pharaoh's Revenge T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pickin Pockets T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Posey's Pass T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Post Nasal Drip T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R&D T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Bit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeples T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Street Fighting Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stumbling Block T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Three's A Charm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tim's Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tinkerbell TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trivial Pursuit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Arete T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warp Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whip Me, Beat Me T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,781 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

A steep, blocky start leads to more civilized climbing along a finger crack, which finishes at the ledge below the right side of the roof. Exit right around the roof, past the precarious-looking flat rock.

Location

On the Redneck Wall, on your way from the Island toward Boobs. Look for a ledge with a roof above it at the top of the wall. On the right side of the roof, there is a flat boulder wedged at an angle. The climb starts under the right end of the roof.

Protection

standard rack, long slings for toproping

Photos

Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
 
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
 
This is all going from memory, and I haven't been there in a while. But my recollection is that there were 1 or 2 trees reasonably close to the edge of the cliff, maybe 4-8 feet away?

Now that bolting is permitted, many of the routes at Palisades have bolted anchors at the top. I'm not sure if anchors have been installed atop Steeples yet, but if so then an extended anchor will no longer be necessary. Jun 8, 2016
I'm pretty new to climbing. When it says to use "long slings" for top roping, what size slings are we talking about?
Thanks! Jun 7, 2016
There is absolutely NO WAY this route is a 5.8. I would call it 5.6, maybe easy 5.7. Posey's Pass (5.6) around the corner is harder. The Flake (5.8, but really 5.9) around the corner is on a different planet than this route. Regardless, it's a favorite of mine. Great route. Feb 22, 2014