Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,901 total · 41/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jan 31, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

At 5.6 in the guide, Elephant Crack is probably the most sandbagged route at Palisades. The gear placements on the face are small and not easy to find, and the roof traverse is strenuous with good potential for an unpleasant pendulum fall. This is an excellent route, but not a good choice for novice leaders.

Starting on a slightly slabby face, climb to a corner under the roof. Underclinging the roof, traverse right about 25' to an outside corner and escape up the rain gully to the top.

Location

In the Fire Tower Wall section, not far right of the descent gully. Starts below an obvious large roof.

Protection

Small gear (mainly nuts) for the face section; small to medium cams for the roof traverse. Sling trees for anchors at the top.
Gus Fontenot
Alabama
 
Gus Fontenot   Alabama
 
time to argue! its 5.6.

pro is straight forward--place in crack above your head before committing to traverse.

traverse is EASY. Good hands in crack and lots of positive placements for feet. Once at end of traverse there are jugs to grab.

Only caveat is you really cannot fall from traverse as you will smack the slab below if you didn't place pro far out in crack before starting to traverse. For that reason its not a good climb for beginning leader... Oct 22, 2007
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
  5.6
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
  5.6
The crux of this route favors those with a long reach (either tall, or ape-y, or both). People with a wingspan over 6 ft. will find it easier to place safe, solid protection further out the roof before committing to the crux. It will also be a bit easier to climb the crux.

I'm not saying the route is super-hard for the shorties out there, but I wouldn't be surprised if difference in reach is a factor in the 5.6 vs. 5.7+ debate. Feb 4, 2008
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
I'm with Gus....5.6. Jul 18, 2011
David Logan
Tuscaloosa, Al
 
David Logan   Tuscaloosa, Al
 
5.6 for sure. Everyone rates it higher because they freak out about the potential pendelum. Feb 15, 2012
Nathan Self
Louisiana
  5.7+
Nathan Self   Louisiana
  5.7+
New anchors at the top.
One of the tallest routes at Palisades.
Super fun. Mar 7, 2012
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Such a fun lead for an intermediate climber, not for novice. May 9, 2012
Elephant crack seems to be abit harder for taller folks. I had a rough time with the first move onto the roof, but after last winter my core is a lot more weak than I'd like. I'd say 5.7, but I could see it either way. NEW Rappel anchors at the top! Jun 26, 2012
Ryan Cantor  
 
Fun Route! Definitely a must at Palisades. Feb 26, 2014
KennyJoe Sabine
zOmBiE = from = OUTER-SPACE
 
KennyJoe Sabine   zOmBiE = from = OUTER-SPACE
 
This is a 5.6 Jul 31, 2015