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Routes in Palisades Park

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
April Fools TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boobs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box Lunch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bubba T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buckets T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burly Girls TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cashmere T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corner Arete, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Dancing TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Etheral Cathedral T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face Of A Phantom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire Tower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Nine Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake Face, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flake, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Foton's Finish T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Days Night TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jumpin' Jeff Flash T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kiddie Crack T,TR V0+ 4+
Kodiak Arrest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lead This? TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marginal Monster (M&M) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mickey's Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Micro Gulley TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mister Green Jeans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Little Pocket Frog T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nameless Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night of the climbing dead TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine to Five T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pharaoh's Revenge T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pickin Pockets T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Posey's Pass T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Post Nasal Drip T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R&D T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Bit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeples T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Street Fighting Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stumbling Block T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Three's A Charm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tim's Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tinkerbell TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trivial Pursuit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Arete T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warp Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whip Me, Beat Me T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,849 total, 15/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Though the "chimney" is off-width, the highly-featured corner in which it resides means that you won't really need any off-width technique to climb it. A pleasant, albeit short, climb.

Location

Walk up to a dirt-covered ledge in the corner between Cathedral Wall and Never Never Land.

Protection

We toproped it, so I'm not 100% on the pro. The chimney itself would big (fist and up) gear. The faces in this area tend to be cut with horizontals, so you may get some tiny stuff in there. Natural anchors for toproping.

Photos

Matthew Campisi
Atlanta, GA
 
Matthew Campisi   Atlanta, GA
 
I didn't place any gear in the big crack; I found enough spots for moderately sized cams and tri-cams with only one section of sketchy-feeling run-out. Jamming your foot/leg in the crack helps a lot with feeling comfortable enough to place pro or make it to the next big hold in the thin section. It was a fun climb and great practice for making creative use of the big off-width. 2 days ago
Mattisadude
  5.6
Mattisadude  
  5.6
Wouldn't bother leading it. Really good climb (5.7 ish?) about 10' right of the chimney following a right-facing roof/alcove. Good to do while in the area. May 13, 2015
Beau Vignes
pensacola, fl
Beau Vignes   pensacola, fl
Pro stinks on the face. Get ready for some run out sections. You will need huge gear in the crack. Oct 7, 2010