Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,048 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Though the "chimney" is off-width, the highly-featured corner in which it resides means that you won't really need any off-width technique to climb it. A pleasant, albeit short, climb.

Location

Walk up to a dirt-covered ledge in the corner between Cathedral Wall and Never Never Land.

Protection

We toproped it, so I'm not 100% on the pro. The chimney itself would big (fist and up) gear. The faces in this area tend to be cut with horizontals, so you may get some tiny stuff in there. Natural anchors for toproping.

Photos

Beau Vignes
pensacola, fl
Beau Vignes   pensacola, fl
Pro stinks on the face. Get ready for some run out sections. You will need huge gear in the crack. Oct 7, 2010
Mattisadude
  5.6
Mattisadude  
  5.6
Wouldn't bother leading it. Really good climb (5.7 ish?) about 10' right of the chimney following a right-facing roof/alcove. Good to do while in the area. May 13, 2015
Matthew Campisi
Atlanta, GA
 
Matthew Campisi   Atlanta, GA
 
I didn't place any gear in the big crack; I found enough spots for moderately sized cams and tri-cams with only one section of sketchy-feeling run-out. Jamming your foot/leg in the crack helps a lot with feeling comfortable enough to place pro or make it to the next big hold in the thin section. It was a fun climb and great practice for making creative use of the big off-width. Nov 21, 2017