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Routes in Palisades Park

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
April Fools TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boobs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box Lunch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bubba T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buckets T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burly Girls TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cashmere T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corner Arete, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Dancing TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Etheral Cathedral T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face Of A Phantom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire Tower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Nine Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake Face, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flake, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Foton's Finish T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Days Night TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jumpin' Jeff Flash T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kiddie Crack T,TR V0+ 4+
Kodiak Arrest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lead This? TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marginal Monster (M&M) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mickey's Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Micro Gulley TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mister Green Jeans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Little Pocket Frog T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nameless Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night of the climbing dead TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine to Five T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pharaoh's Revenge T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pickin Pockets T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Posey's Pass T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Post Nasal Drip T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R&D T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Bit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeples T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Street Fighting Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stumbling Block T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Three's A Charm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tim's Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tinkerbell TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trivial Pursuit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Arete T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warp Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whip Me, Beat Me T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 868 ft
GPS: 33.96, -86.477 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: saxfiend on Jan 30, 2007 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
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Description

If you're looking for a pleasant spot to bring friends new to climbing, Alabama's Palisades Park is a great choice.

Located not far from Birmingham, Palisades is a Blount County Park with a nice little cliff line running just below its parking lot. There's a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Almost all routes can be easily top-roped without leading, and most have permanent anchors, so it's a perfect place for a beginner's first outdoor climbing experience. And if you're just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There's no sport climbing at Palisades; no bolting is allowed.

All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $5 climbing permit (good for three days) or a $35 annual permit. From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavilion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff.

If you need a map of the routes, the park office will supply you with one. Otherwise, the Dixie Cragger's Atlas is a good resource for routes at Palisades.

Getting There

From Birmingham, take SR 75 north to Oneonta. Take a left on US 231 (north); about a mile or two outside of Oneonta, watch for signs pointing to Palisades Park and follow county roads to the park entrance.

From Atlanta, take I-20 west to the US 231 exit. Follow 231 north through Oneonta, then follow directions above to the park.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Palisades Park

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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I took my teenage daughter and her friend here for the first time this past weekend. It is a really nice park, and for a fall weekend, there were not many climbers. This place does not get near the amount of traffic Sandrock does, and I would guess many of the non-bolted anchor routes are seldom climbed. We had a great time toproping, which allowed the girls and I to really stretch ourselves on harder routes. The route map posted here is really helpful, along with Dixie Cragger, there are more bolted anchor routes than the ones listed, and a few had rap rings. Metolius hangers and it all looks brand new. You just have to work your way along the cliff peering over the side. We also rigged a few tree anchors too. $5 per person, for a three day permit is cheap for such a nice park. Oct 17, 2017
Roxas77  
Hey guys. I was just wondering what kind of gear do I need to have to set up a top rope here? I currently have a 60m rope, a sling, locking carabiniers, quick draws, a belay device, and harnesses. May 27, 2016
BrendanN
Atlanta, GA
BrendanN   Atlanta, GA
Some extra info for those wondering:

1. Climbing permits are currently $5 per person, anyone under age 19 needs a parent/guardian to get a permit. It is only good for 3 days now.

2. There is a park map with some climbing routes and walkdown paths marked. It can be found in the park office where you get your permit.

3. This site should have a list of routes with fixed anchors as well as more up-to-date info: blountcountypark.com/activi… May 10, 2016
1. do you only need 1 permit per group or per person?
2. on the website it says you have to be 19 to apply for the climbing permit. I'm over 19 but i would like to take my little brother who is 17. does anyone know how strict they are with the age limit.

I called the park but the phone number was disconnected. Aug 26, 2014
khowe
Knoxville, TN
khowe   Knoxville, TN
"Descent gully" was a bit tricky to find. From the massive water tank, walk along ridge moving away from central area of park. Gully is near the big antenna. There is a map in main office. May 13, 2013
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Some, if not all anchors are accessible from the top. Still, it's wise to bring a few long pieces of rope or webbing (two 50 footers would be plenty) in case you want to get on a route that has not been updated. Dec 11, 2012
I will be in the area and was wondering what is needed to set up a TR here? I saw someone said something about bolted anchors. Are they accessible from the top, or that only for topping out on trad? Dec 10, 2012
jmat  
Which routes have the new anchors on them? I haven't been to Palisades in years. I've been out of climbing for awhile, but some of the youth in my church want me to take them climbing. Oct 2, 2012
Siberia
Birmingham, AL
Siberia   Birmingham, AL
Anyone know what type of hangers they put up at Palisades? I was there this weekend, but didn't recognize them. Thanks in advance, Jun 12, 2012
Cres Simpson
Cambridge, MA
Cres Simpson   Cambridge, MA
One of the few places that seems to offer tolerable climbing "out of season" (aka deep summer) in AL. The cliffline gives shade from morning through early afternoon and there's plentiful access to water from the top of the cliff.

As a heads up, the park office doesn't open until 9am to sell permits -- though we did manage to find an employee who doesn't normally work the office who was willing to open it up for us before the ranger got there. We were only charged $2, but that may reflect inexperience on behalf of the employee who checked us in. May 26, 2012
Nathan Self
Louisiana
Nathan Self   Louisiana
Anchors are currently being installed throughout the park, with about 25 already complete. This weekend, I was told that they plan to set about 50 total. Mar 5, 2012
Chris Blanchard
Anacortes, WA
Chris Blanchard   Anacortes, WA
Its 3 bucks now ..... AND they have some new bolted anchors through out .. noticed on top of Posey's and a few on the Island - didn't do more digging than that. Feb 25, 2012
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
It is perfect in October and November...temps are just right, shade in the morning, with the sun peaking over the cliffline just before lunch in most areas. Apr 2, 2008
Sara Weimar
Del Rio, TX
Sara Weimar   Del Rio, TX
How is this area in October and early November? I'm going to be in Montgomery and I'm looking for any good climbing in the area. Apr 1, 2008
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Pallisades Park is a well kept and beutifull park that is nice to take your family for a picnic and some nice liad back climbing. The only critter you need worry about is the ever present cane break rattler. They really like laying agianst the cliff line on a hot summer day and they're about three feet long and fat, and mean when provoked. We've been going there for years and have only saw a couple. Though, this is still a great, really pretty place and check out the chain saw carvings, really cool!! Mar 30, 2008

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