Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,065 total · 29/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

Easy climbing leads to a nice easy roof.

Climb the crack to the base of the roof above. Load up the horizontals with gear and long slings. Work those feet up as you hand-over-hand out the large horizontal flake. Once fully extended, have faith and reach around to huge, hidden jugs. Cut loose and pull up onto the easy face above the roof. Climb this to the top.

Location

Long broken crack to a roof in a highly impacted area. Maybe 200' right of the 'descent gully'. Just left of the awesome face climb "Night of the Climbing Dead".

Protection

Stoppers, cams to #2 or so...there's good gear all over this route.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8
If you're planning to go to the Gunks, this is good prep for roof moves like the one on Shockley's Ceiling. I consider Cashmere slightly sandbagged at 5.7. I wasn't ready to lead it last time I was there, but I will lead it next time. Jun 4, 2007
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
The lower half can be protected with passive pro. But, use cams right at and in the roof. Nice intro to 5.7 trad. Oct 27, 2008
Cres Simpson
Cambridge, MA
  5.8
Cres Simpson   Cambridge, MA
  5.8
Bolted anchors now at the top. May 26, 2012
MicahStovall
Denver, CO
MicahStovall   Denver, CO
My partner lead this route and now there is a fixed (stuck) #9 stopper right above the roof. Protection should be pretty strait forward on this route and now you can just clip into this nut instead of scrambling for a piece once you pull over the roof. Oct 4, 2016
Nolan Fulton
Huntsville, AL
  5.7+ PG13
Nolan Fulton   Huntsville, AL
  5.7+ PG13
Wow! One of the Greatest roofs I have ever lead! Felt like a solid 5.7 if you get your feet and body placed right. I will definitely repeat this one. Nov 12, 2017
Matthew Campisi
Atlanta, GA
5.8+
Matthew Campisi   Atlanta, GA
5.8+
This climb is pretty easy overall, but roof section felt significantly harder than 5.8-. Maybe it all balances out, or I didn't quite find the right way to pull the roof. May 1, 2018