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Routes in Palisades Park

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
April Fools TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boobs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box Lunch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bubba T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buckets T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burly Girls TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cashmere T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corner Arete, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Dancing TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Etheral Cathedral T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face Of A Phantom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire Tower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Nine Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake Face, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flake, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Foton's Finish T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Days Night TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jumpin' Jeff Flash T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kiddie Crack T,TR V0+ 4+
Kodiak Arrest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lead This? TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marginal Monster (M&M) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mickey's Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Micro Gulley TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mister Green Jeans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Little Pocket Frog T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nameless Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night of the climbing dead TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine to Five T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pharaoh's Revenge T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pickin Pockets T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Posey's Pass T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Post Nasal Drip T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R&D T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Bit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeples T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Street Fighting Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stumbling Block T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Three's A Charm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tim's Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tinkerbell TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trivial Pursuit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Arete T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warp Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whip Me, Beat Me T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,502 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

For full value, start underneath the roof. Lunge out to the edge of the roof, and mantle onto the face. Mellow face climbing leads up to a steeper section and another crux at the top.

Location

Look for a low-lying roof to the left of Boobs. This route starts at the left end of that roof.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Siberia
Birmingham, AL
 
Siberia   Birmingham, AL
 
@ Ryan, it sounds like you were on Micro Gulley.

I'll try and give a little clarification. There are 3 popular routes right in this area. When facing the cliff at the bottom, from left to right you have Mickey's Mantle, Micro Gulley, and Boobs.

There is a shallow low angle dihedral at the bottom left side. Mickey's Mantle starts to the right of the corner in the big horizontals and goes almost straight up. The start is a very bouldery move, then a jug haul to the thin crux at the top. Some shorter people will use the left side of the start to gain the big horizontal, and then campus right to gain the direct start for the full grade. Bolted anchors.

Next to the right is Micro Gulley. It starts about 10+ feet to the right of Mickey's Mantle on big horizontals as well. It goes up and slightly to the right and finishes through a thin and shallow micro gulley. The finish is only about 5-7ft to the left of Boobs. Bolted anchors as of 3/22/14.

Boobs is around the arete - face climbing leads to a roof and then anchors in the 'cleavage'. Mar 24, 2014
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
  5.9
From the face right above the roof I went straight up the face to the obvious anchors. The climbing at the top was thin face up a shallow seam/dihedral (felt about 5.9ish). I thought this was Mickey's Mantle but then someone else told me that was Microgully and Mickey's Mantle was more to the left? Oct 28, 2013
Siberia
Birmingham, AL
 
Siberia   Birmingham, AL
 
If you start on the left side of the corner/dihedral and then move up and right on to the face I'd call it a 9. But if you make the direct start straight on to the face with the heel hook or campus, then I'd say it's a 10 when combined with the upper crux. Just my opinion. Oct 2, 2013
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
  5.9
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
  5.9
This climb felt significantly easier than Boobs. The first 2/3 of the route are just a huge jug haul, followed by some thin face climbing (crux) at the end. Fun route, great new anchors. I would normally call this a 5.10, but not compared to the routes next to it, Boobs and Microgully, which the guide calls 5.9. Jul 1, 2013
Nathan Self
Louisiana
  5.10a/b
Nathan Self   Louisiana
  5.10a/b
New anchors at the top. Mar 7, 2012
Mickey was pulling mantles all over the south!! I just climbed a "Mickey's Mantle" .10a at Curahee in Ga. I guess now i should try Palisade's "Mickey's Mantle". The descriptions even sound similar, anyone know the FA of the AL "MM"? Feb 4, 2008