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Routes in Palisades Park

A Little Help From My Friends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
April Fools TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boobs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Box Lunch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bubba T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buckets T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burly Girls TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cashmere T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Christmas Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corner Arete, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Dancing TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Etheral Cathedral T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Face Of A Phantom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire Tower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Nine Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake Face, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flake, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Foton's Finish T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Days Night TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jumpin' Jeff Flash T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kiddie Crack T,TR V0+ 4+
Kodiak Arrest TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lead This? TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marginal Monster (M&M) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mickey's Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Micro Gulley TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mister Green Jeans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Little Pocket Frog T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nameless Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night of the climbing dead TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine to Five T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pharaoh's Revenge T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pickin Pockets T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Posey's Pass T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Post Nasal Drip T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R&D T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Bit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeples T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Street Fighting Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stumbling Block T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Three's A Charm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tim's Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tinkerbell TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trivial Pursuit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Arete T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warp Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whip Me, Beat Me T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 770 total, 11/month
Shared By: Geissler Golding on Jun 3, 2012
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

The Flake Face begins on thin and reachy face moves which become progressively tougher through the middle of the bulge. It ends with a nuanced and balanced mantle-ish move over the bulge. Once you gain the top of the bulge/shield and can move comfortably, the climb is essentially complete.

This route feels harder than 5.11 until you unlock its mystery crux in the center of the shield/bulge. Definitely demands some accuracy and a bit of crimp strength.

Location

Start about 4 feet left of Dirty Dancing. You should not have to use any part of the original Flake route (i.e. left facing side-pulls)

Protection

Top Rope. The new Dixie Cragger suggests using the anchors at the top of Dirty Dancing but in practice I would suggest using the anchors for The Flake instead (there will be a bit of rope rub on the bulge if you peel off)

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