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Routes in Casket Quarry ICE

Type: Sport, Mixed, 70 ft
FA: James Loveridge
Page Views: 551 total · 4/month
Shared By: James Loveridge on Jan 17, 2008
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Location

Between “Deer Bait” and “Crocodile Tiers”. Look for prominent right facing eyebrow with a large Thermarest sized ledge below it at about half height. You can see the anchors on the left side of a block that juts out from the top.

Description

This route will get you purring and using all you feline instincts. Start up mungy broken flakes to the first ledge. Climb through steep groove to get established on big Thermarest sized ledge. Climb up corner under eyebrow following it right (farther than you think you should), all the way to a loose looking but bomber broken block. Here’s where you get your claws out… from the good hold on the top of the broken looking block, make the clip, then do your best to find some really bad footholds and spring WAY left to hook a feature at the juncture of the left facing corner that the anchors are in and the small ledge that you’ll be standing on when you clip the anchor. Early in the season there is often an icicle/smear dribbling down the headwall. This makes the climb quite a bit easier; about M7-

Protection

9 Quickdraws for bolts.

Photos

Dave Rone
Custer, SD
  M7-8
Dave Rone   Custer, SD  
  M7-8
The 'bad footholds' used for the dyno to the left have gotten much worse . . . maybe even non-existent. Good luck. Mar 4, 2015

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