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Routes in Casket Quarry ICE

Type: Sport, Mixed, 65 ft
FA: James Loveridge
Page Views: 969 total, 8/month
Shared By: James Loveridge on Jan 17, 2008
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Location

Look for a super chossy ramp/pedestal at the base of a shallow dihedral. There is a big flake that you can see at the top that you folow up and right for about 10 feet untill you reach the ice.

Description

The start is a little stout compared to the rest but once on it, yer happy as a deer eating rotten carrots! Start by climbing up the right side of the rampy ledge to clip first bolt. Think about German beer serving levers to make the moves up into the broken hanging flake feature of the dihedral. Yard up on a few pick gobbling slots to chossy section under bulge. Pull bulge moving left to gain a sweet stance on a little pedestal. Follow crack up and right following giant flake on bomber pick placements (sometimes too bomber as they get stuck easily!) to the ice curtain. Pull curtain on the right side. Anchors are on a block on the right side of the ice.

Protection

8 Quickdraws for bolts.

Photos

When the ice is thin on the exit (when not formed immediatley above last bolt, but only out left) or when it's seen alot of consecutive sunny days and is lifted from the rock, plan on a very challenging finish pulling over the lip. Jan 17, 2011