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Routes in Casket Quarry ICE

Type: Sport, Mixed, 80 ft
FA: James Loveridge
Page Views: 567 total, 5/month
Shared By: James Loveridge on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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About 30 feet left of Big Blue is a broken left facing corner that leads to a section of groove/seams. In average years there should be a dagger up top to finish on. In dryer seasons you should be able to see the anchors on the left side of a block that juts out from the top.


Start at the base of a broken Left facing corner. Climb up steepening corner on chossy jugs to gain stance on a loose feeling but bomber block on the right (It’s been abused by a 5’ crowbar to no avail so go ahead and yard on it). Follow junky flakes and ledges (don’t get suckered to the left!) to a groove/vertical seam system to the base of the crux headwall. When dry; go up and slightly right on small holds to the turf sticks/tree hooks that let you clip the anchors. When icy; go up and left to an ok stance below the dagger, then pull dagger to get established on the ice. A couple swings and you’re at the anchors.


9 Quickdraws for bolts. NOTE: If you get on this early in the season you might have to chop out some of the bolts. In a fat year the last bolt might be covered by the dagger so it might be wise to bring a screw. Also- the anchors might need some hacking to clear them of ice. If you can’t see them from the ground, I’d recommend bringing a short screw to hang from if you are not sure about their status and have to chop them out.