Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, Mixed, 55 ft|
|Page Views:||1,289 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||James Loveridge on Jan 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Kris Gorny, Chris treggE|
LocationThis is the farthest left bolted M-climb at the West wall section of the quarry (just right of The Alpine Route). Look for a small mattress sized ledge with a flatish top about 10 feet off the deck.
DescriptionThis route just gets better and better the higher you go! Choose from 3 options to gain the ledge to start the climb proper (first bolt is WAY up there ) From the Right: awkwardly climb up the right side of the ledge on chossy edges and bad feet till you can stand up. Easy but very insecure From the Left: go up the dihedral on the left side of the ledge on ok holds (look for pick/tool-head cam in horizontal crack slightly left). Burl up and onto ledge using side-pulls/broken fins under roof. This start is harder but more secure. Center-direct: Climb small, friable flakes in center of starting block to gain ledge. Being both hard and- insecure, this start is perhaps the least appealing. There are plans to put in a bolt to make it safe for the left and center starts, but right now this is how it stands.
From the ledge go up and trend left on tiny holds to the base of a rightward arching dihedral. Climb up dihedral on progressively more secure pick torques to reach the headwall. Climb vertical seams on impressively exposed headwall to gain a stance on a ramp/ledge. The anchors are on the wall to the left about head high as you are standing on the rampy ledge just above the headwall. You might have to chop them out if theres a lot of ice. This is truly a great route and not to be missed!