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Routes in Casket Quarry ICE

Type: Sport, TR, Mixed, 75 ft
FA: James Loveridge (Bolted Mixed Version)
Page Views: 1,025 total, 8/month
Shared By: nodin on Dec 10, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Location

This climb starts in the large and prominent Right facing dihedral about 20 feet Left of "The Chimney".

Description

Start at the bottom of a large right facing dihedral and move up following thin seam/cracks in corner. In some years, there is a bit of ice around the 6th/7th bolt. Past this, where the left wall of the dihedral goes away you have two options: move left to an awkward stance, then climb up and directly right to the anchors -or- go straight up on broken mungy ledges to anchor. The former is a little more insecure but little bit easier than the latter.

Protection

9 Quickdraws for bolts. It’s quite safe but I have heard some complaints so if enough people comment on wanting more bolts I’ll consider pulling them all and re-bolting it.

History

This route has been climbed in the summer as a scary 5.10 trad route, original protected with "a hammer and a bucket of borrowed pitons". Today however, it is excellent in it's current state as an exercise in torqueing and delicate footwork. No bucket needed…

(Thanks to James Loveridge for supplying the info above)

Photos

Lucas Kramer
Duluth, MN
 
Lucas Kramer   Duluth, MN
 
Several large chunks of rock from above the anchors fell. Bolts and anchors appear to be in fine shape. Also, a three foot flake came off from the very top of the crack, prior to the tricky climbing moves leading up to the anchor. The flake made no contact on its way down, don't know about the upper rock. Lots of dirt on the finishing moves but the route is still climbable and the grade is not affected.

Zoom in on the photo. The two large chunks directly above the two red dots are no longer there. Nov 17, 2012
Kris Gorny

  M6
Kris Gorny    
  M6
Save some energy for getting from the last bolt to the anchors. It's exciting. Jan 15, 2008