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Routes in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

A River Runs To It S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Abandonement Issues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Aerial Combat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Worthy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
All Washed Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aretes Syndrome S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Water T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Book T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Candy Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Collateral Damage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Don't Grab Here T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eskimo Roll S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Explorers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finders Keepers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fleuger Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flight Line 1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Line 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight Line 3 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Stimulator T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forget Me Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here's my Paddle! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jibber Jabber S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Losers Weepers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napolean Complex S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Tooth Or Consequences S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Non-nuclear Arms S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Old and Creeky S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Omission Statement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parting Shot S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polar Bear Club S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Running With The Bulls S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skybox S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sundance S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweetie Don't Bite S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trailing Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tributary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophandemonium S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Use It Or Lose It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Virgin's Airline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watershed S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's My Paddle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wreckless Abandon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: JSt,EFR,'07
Page Views: 712 total, 6/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Getting to the stance to clip the bolt right of the roof is the trick to this climb. Good pro and easier climbing above.

Location

At the left edge of the south face of the Control Tower. Bolts lead to a roof that leads to a gear protected crack/corner above.

Protection

Bolts, standard light rack.

Photos

Gosh, I think this is the climb I did with Catherine on the Control Tower. Fun climb! Nov 9, 2012
jbak
 
jbak  
 
The roof moves are only awkward if you do them wrong (which I also did on first try). But done correctly it's a nice crux. Jan 29, 2008
Strange, awkward moves needed to get under the roof. Pulling the roof is fun. Rock is very suspect, blew off baseball sized chunk. Jan 21, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I'd recommend changing the route type field to "trad,sport" to indicate it's a MIXED route. I quickly looked at the route type description which said "sport" and spaced out on the rest of the detail further down. Then I ended up above the roof with just a few smaller Aliens I had left over on my harness from a previous climb.

There was a bail biner on the last bolt so someone else had made the same mistake as well. It's amazing the imaginary bolts you'll convince yourself you're seeing once you think it's a sport route. Jan 12, 2008
jbak
 
jbak  
 
2 stars easy. Kind of reminds me of the Rupley routes. Interesting yet confusing crux followed by fun climbing with good easy-to-get gear. Dec 19, 2007