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Routes in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

A River Runs To It S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Abandonement Issues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Aerial Combat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Worthy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
All Washed Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aretes Syndrome S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Water T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Candy Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Collateral Damage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Don't Grab Here T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eskimo Roll S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Explorers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finders Keepers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fleuger Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flight Line 1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Line 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight Line 3 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Stimulator T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forget Me Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here's my Paddle! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jibber Jabber S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Losers Weepers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napolean Complex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Tooth Or Consequences S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Non-nuclear Arms S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Old and Creeky S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Omission Statement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parting Shot S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polar Bear Club S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Running With The Bulls S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skybox S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sundance S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweetie Don't Bite S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trailing Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tributary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophandemonium S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Use It Or Lose It S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Virgin's Airline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watershed S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's My Paddle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wreckless Abandon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: EFR,JSt,'07
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description [Edit]

The crack through the 5 foot roof is the crux. It really helps to have a ton of tape or some crack gloves. The jams are painful otherwise. The left start is as tricky as the roof itself and makes the route a tad harder.

Location [Edit]

This route climbs the middle of the south face of the Control Tower. It has two starts. From the rocks to the left climb past a roof with a chain at the lip, or climb overhanging jugs up broken face directly below the roof.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts,anchors

Photos

Did this route again with the left hand start and found the second roof to be quite challenging. I originally rated it 5.11 but it may be harder. We need someone that does this kind of thing now and then to give us a clue. Apr 5, 2008
Brent Silvester
  5.11a/b
Brent Silvester  
  5.11a/b
Did the right hand variation to the route. Really fun on sight. It was like four mini-routes (steep start, slab, roof, easy finish) combined together. Didn't have tape, and I would agree that it would be nice to have. Seems like the route could take gear, so if that's your thing, it would be an amazing effort to lead it that way. Will try the left hand variation next time. Apr 8, 2009
Nice OS! We thought about not putting the bolt in at the roof but the gear would get in the way and I think when we did it on TR it caused a lot of drag because it pinched the cam. Besides, it is only a couple pieces of gear and the rest is bolts anyway. Apr 8, 2009
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
Exciting roof, with lots of other interesting moves. Jamming is optional... Jan 12, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Just in case you were wondering :-) you can aid the roof w a #4 cam Apr 10, 2011

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