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Routes in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

A River Runs To It S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Abandonement Issues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Aerial Combat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Worthy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
All Washed Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aretes Syndrome S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Water T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Book T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Candy Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Collateral Damage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Don't Grab Here T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eskimo Roll S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Explorers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finders Keepers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fleuger Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flight Line 1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Line 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight Line 3 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Stimulator T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forget Me Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here's my Paddle! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jibber Jabber S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Losers Weepers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napolean Complex S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Tooth Or Consequences S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Non-nuclear Arms S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Old and Creeky S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Omission Statement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parting Shot S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polar Bear Club S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Running With The Bulls S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skybox S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sundance S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweetie Don't Bite S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trailing Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tributary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophandemonium S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Use It Or Lose It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Virgin's Airline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watershed S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's My Paddle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wreckless Abandon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: EFR, JSt, Robert McLeod'07
Page Views: 3,340 total, 28/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

One of the best gear climbs in the grade. Good pro all the way to the anchors. Looks harder than it is.

Location

Right side of the wall. It is an obvious right facing dihedral in an alcove that starts 20 feet above the trail at the base of the cliff. It looks harder than it is.

Protection

Standard rack with small cams up to 3 Camalot and two each of purple green and red. Chains at the top for lowering when done.
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10
Great, Great!!! I followed this trad route and thought it was straight 5.10 in the center portion... It looks intimidating from the ground. I was able to do a lot of cool stemming. Can't wait to take a crack at leading it... David Sampson lead this one really well and got in good gear-some small stuff at the crux is what I remember. Fun moves. Jan 19, 2010
Todd Savoy
Flagstaff
Todd Savoy   Flagstaff
Ive only been climbing on Lemmon for about 6 months but this is by far the most aesthetic route I've done. I love that the moves vary so much...from jams to crimps. Apr 5, 2009
scottcundy
tucson, az
scottcundy   tucson, az
Phenomenal gear, sweet climbing. Really a classic in my opinion. I would give it a 10a rating. Jan 31, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
This is a great climb ... it's my favorite route at the Forgotten Wall. Jan 22, 2009
I think the crux move is no harder than 5.9. Great climb. Jan 20, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
nah, it's not 5.9. this is a solid lemmon 10a. best corner on the mountain, imho. Jan 18, 2009
Brent Silvester
  5.9+
Brent Silvester  
  5.9+
One Pitch Wonder!!! Definatly worth the hike for this route. I would say there are too many no hands rests to be a .10. A solid 5.9 lead. Eveytime I climb it, I find differents ways to protect it. Lovely route. Jan 17, 2009
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.10-
Amazing route! The gear, stances and climbing are all great. When I started leading trad 2 months ago, I wanted to lead an all gear 5.10 on Mt Lemmon before the end of the year...so this was my first 5.10 trad lead - I finished it at 4:00 pm on Dec 31st. Nothing like waiting till the last minute, right? Dec 31, 2008
Chris Prewitt
  5.9+
Chris Prewitt  
  5.9+
A rarity for Mount Lemmon: a true dihedral crack climb. Terrific stances to make placing pro a breeze. Very fun climbing. Dec 26, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Nice to be able and spice up the day placing a bit of pro. Added bonus is the no hands rest and bolted anchors found up top. The route can easily be protected with 2" and less. Plenty of placements to choose from. May 12, 2008
This is a excellent climb. Great gear, fun moves. Well worth the hike if you were just to do this route. Jan 21, 2008