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Routes in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

A River Runs To It S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Abandonement Issues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Aerial Combat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Worthy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
All Washed Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aretes Syndrome S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Water T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Book T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Candy Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Collateral Damage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Don't Grab Here T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eskimo Roll S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Explorers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finders Keepers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fleuger Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flight Line 1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Line 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight Line 3 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Stimulator T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forget Me Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here's my Paddle! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jibber Jabber S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Losers Weepers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napolean Complex S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Tooth Or Consequences S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Non-nuclear Arms S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Old and Creeky S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Omission Statement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parting Shot S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polar Bear Club S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Running With The Bulls S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skybox S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sundance S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweetie Don't Bite S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trailing Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tributary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophandemonium S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Use It Or Lose It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Virgin's Airline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watershed S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's My Paddle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wreckless Abandon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: JSt,EFR,'07
Page Views: 911 total, 8/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route has good trad pro when you need and a few bolts to supplement the gear. Interesting crack climbing before the summit block will test you.

Location

Left of the chimney on the west face. Follow crack system up the back side.

Protection

Bolts, Gear, Anchors

Photos

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
yeah i sometimes put in bolts too where they're welcome but not completely necessary. if i remember correctly, i just wanted to say "unsolicited bolt" at the time, hence the comment.

great route. Jun 27, 2010
Jimbo  
The moves out the roof at top of the dihedral are definitely 5.9.

I don't own a #4 camalot (If I did I might be tempted to use it) hence the 1st bolt.

I climbed this route a few weeks ago and Geir skipped the second bolt and placed gear also. When I pulled his "bomber cam" a slew of crumbly rock from inside the crack came with it.

"Don't Grab Here" is the best route on the control tower, IMO. Apr 13, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
surprisingly, this may be the best route on the control tower. it looks shitty from the ground but the climbing is excellent and the gear is bomber and plentiful. there is at least one unsolicited bolt on this climb 4" from a solid #4 placement at the bottom, but of course i clipped it because i'm a pussy. the other bolt may not be necessary either; my buddy who led it after me put in two bomber pieces and skipped the bolt, but ran it out a bit.

this may not be 10a, but it's certainly harder than it was before i broke off a handhold at the roof and whipped. though my buddy who's a strong crack climber said it's a stretch to call it even 5.9... Jan 18, 2009