Type: Sport, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: JSt, EFR
Page Views: 476 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Feb 12, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Fun stuff to the roof, hard pull over roof then a bit more business till it eases up and joins Candy Man.

Location

Takes the obvious corner through the obvious roof just left of Cat On a Hot Thin Roof.
Joins Candy Man about half way up.

Protection

Bolts, Chains

Photos

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1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
This will be a bit harder if you are shorter than 5'10". I am 5'6" with the same ape index and I had to work out an entirely different way through the crux. Funny thing is that Jimbo and I both worked on this before and decided we didn't want to do it because it was hard (I couldn't even do it)and rough on the tips. Now that I have a sequence that will work I look forward to getting on it for the redpoint. Feb 14, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12a
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12a
I'd love to see the short-person beta for this some day. At 5'8" and +1 ape it felt basically impossible. Feb 20, 2018