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Routes in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

A River Runs To It S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Abandonement Issues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Aerial Combat S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Worthy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
All Washed Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aretes Syndrome S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Water T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood Book T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Candy Man S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Collateral Damage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Don't Grab Here T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eskimo Roll S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Explorers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finders Keepers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fleuger Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flight Line 1 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Line 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight Line 3 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Stimulator T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forget Me Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here's my Paddle! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jibber Jabber S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Losers Weepers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napolean Complex S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Tooth Or Consequences S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Non-nuclear Arms S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Old and Creeky S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Omission Statement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parting Shot S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polar Bear Club S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Running With The Bulls S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skybox S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sundance S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweetie Don't Bite S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trailing Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tributary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophandemonium S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Use It Or Lose It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Virgin's Airline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watershed S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's My Paddle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wreckless Abandon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 5,700 ft
GPS: 32.355, -110.718 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,107 total, 124/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

This wall faces south and can be climbed on the coldest of sunny days. The face climbing is not as crimpy as Windy Point and there are a number of routes that climb through or around roofs.
The Control Tower is at the right end of the wall. It has a 5ft. roof with a crack through it. At least three of the routes involve surmounting roofs. The Up The Creek Wall is 100 yards past the Tower. The areas rock is generally good but it has a bit of fuzz still coming off. You do need to pay attention as there is some stuff around that you want to avoid. If the rock seems bad there is a solid hold to be found somewhere. 40 plus routes from 5.9 to 12-
Many of the routes anchors have leaver biners so all you have to do is clip and lower off. Two routes are 115 feet long and need a 70M rope. Both these routes have an anchor part way up with leaver biners on them so if you have a 60M rope you can still get down. A lot of the routes have leaver biners so you just have to clip in and lower.

Overhead topo for locating routes:
pikaconsulting.com/climbing… (PDF File)

Getting There

SQ II Has directions to Kesslers Corner and the Twinkie. The milepost now is 8.6. This is a left hand sweeper that has a slow car lane on the right. Park off the road to the right or a 10th of a mile back at the Thimble Peak Overlook. A trail goes up the left side then hooks back right to the drainage getting you above the falls. If it is cold the rocks near the water can be icy. If it has rained a lot the water can make the approach a bit harder. If the water is barely flowing then hike the main drainage until you are just below the Control Tower then hang a left. If the water is much more than a trickle take the high approach. This route leaves the drainage approach just before you drop down into the wash after traversing the bench you can see from the car. Cairns head up the hill. It is a little steeper than the creek bed but a little shorter. Either way you go will take 20-30 minutes depending on what your conditioning is. If the creek is running getting to the Up The Creek Wall is best done from the base of the Control Tower. Drop down from the base of it maybe fifteen feet. At a belay seat turn left and follow the trail. It goes up and down a bit to avoid the thick stuff but only takes about 3 minutes to reach the cliff.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Break
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Book
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Virgin's Airline
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Losers Weepers
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Stimulator
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Grab Here
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Water
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finders Keepers
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweetie Don't Bite
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Use It Or Lose It
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skybox
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sundance
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tryptophandemonium
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Where's My Paddle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Air Break 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blood Book 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Virgin's Airline 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Losers Weepers 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Flight Stimulator 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Don't Grab Here 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Black Water 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Finders Keepers 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sweetie Don't Bite 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Use It Or Lose It 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Skybox 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Sundance 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Tryptophandemonium 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Where's My Paddle 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
A Google Earth file showing the approach can be found at this link:

geir.com/googleearth/lemmon/

Enjoy! Jan 11, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
My 5 minute understanding of 'Up The Creek Wall'. An attempt was made to list the routes from left to right.

Old And Creeky (5.10, BC)
All Washed Up (5.10, BGC)
Polar Bear Club (5.9, BC)
A River Runs To It (5.10c/d, BC)
Eskimo Roll (5.10, BC)
Watershed (5.10, BC)
Black Water (5.10, GC)
Where's My Paddle (5.11c/d, BC)
Here's My Paddle (5.9-, BC) Jan 27, 2013
Jimbo  
Just tried Eric's link, works fine. Apr 16, 2009
is there a current topo available for this area? the link to the topo on this page doesn't seem to work. thanks.-j Apr 15, 2009
Thanks for the development. Just went yesterday and had a blast. Unfortunately we forgot to bring gear, and what a mistake that turned out to be. Watch out for the cat claw acacia if you wander off the trails. Can't wait to get back there. Dec 16, 2008
rudy
arlington, va
rudy   arlington, va
where was this place all my life? Keep up the good work Eric and Jimbo. can't wait to check it out. Jun 10, 2008
Jimbo  
Up the Creek Wall is the formation 100 yards up stream from the Control Tower, on the same side of the creek. A slight trail can be found cutting across the hillside just below the start of Air Worthy. Feb 15, 2008
Nice one Christian. You are getting the hang of this banter thing. Feb 6, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I don't know about Desicon but I meant thanks to Eric R for posting the all-important topo. Another thanks to all the FAs for the only slightly less important task of putting up the routes themselves. Feb 5, 2008
Jimbo  
Ya, nice job Eric. Thank the Gods you run around the mountains and find all these great crags. Your my hero!!! Feb 5, 2008
Desicon  
Just found this development report, lol, "Forgotten Wall," well, not really forgotten, R. Flaugher just got too old and busted up to get out here after 1994. I've left some comments on this area under the "Flight Delay" notes. Great job of development, Eric! Jan 28, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Thanks Eric! Jan 28, 2008
I've put together a topo of this excellent area. Hope it helps you find the climbs a bit easier.

pikaconsulting.com/climbing… (PDF File) Jan 28, 2008
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
Very impressive when coming around the last bend on the hike in... Great find! The hike is hard, but fun and adventurous with some great scenery! I can't wait to sample some of the steeper routes next time! Jan 27, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
this is a sweet area for hard sport! Jan 20, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
Awesome job with this area description and the accompanying route descriptions! It got me further psyched for my trip out there in March. Dec 28, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Hey Eric,

Any estimate of hiking time in?. Normally I'd just go for it and see but my partner needs to leave early for the airport tomorrow so can't do long hikes.

Thanks Dec 21, 2007
Stop by the house with a check and you have got it. I have been handing them out like candy, ask Ray or his buddy if you don't see me first. Better yet give me a name for that route of yours and you can have a topo. Dec 19, 2007
jbak  
ok.......now a topo ! Dec 19, 2007
Yo, I'll get to it when I have a bit more spare time. The routes you did were: this one, that one, and the other one. Control Tower was just something that gave us a theme for some names. So now you can try coming up with a name for that thing you did. Glues Control, Glue Me Forecast, Gluem and Doom, Glueteous Maximus, Crash Landing, anything but NE Face. Whatever dude! Dec 19, 2007
jbak  
Dude, finish your task here...I don't even know the names of the routes I've done. How did you arrive at "Control Tower" ? Dec 19, 2007

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