Elevation: 5,700 ft
GPS: 32.355, -110.718 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 43,896 total · 250/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

Description

This wall faces south and can be climbed on the coldest of sunny days. The face climbing is not as crimpy as Windy Point and there are a number of routes that climb through or around roofs.
The Control Tower is at the right end of the wall. It has a 5ft. roof with a crack through it. At least three of the routes involve surmounting roofs. The Up The Creek Wall is 100 yards past the Tower. The areas rock is generally good but it has a bit of fuzz still coming off. You do need to pay attention as there is some stuff around that you want to avoid. If the rock seems bad there is a solid hold to be found somewhere. 40 plus routes from 5.9 to 12-
Many of the routes anchors have leaver biners so all you have to do is clip and lower off. Two routes are 115 feet long and need a 70M rope. Both these routes have an anchor part way up with leaver biners on them so if you have a 60M rope you can still get down. A lot of the routes have leaver biners so you just have to clip in and lower.

Overhead topo for locating routes:
pikaconsulting.com/climbing… (PDF File)

Getting There

SQ II Has directions to Kesslers Corner and the Twinkie. The milepost now is 8.6. This is a left hand sweeper that has a slow car lane on the right. Park off the road to the right or a 10th of a mile back at the Thimble Peak Overlook. A trail goes up the left side then hooks back right to the drainage getting you above the falls. If it is cold the rocks near the water can be icy. If it has rained a lot the water can make the approach a bit harder. If the water is barely flowing then hike the main drainage until you are just below the Control Tower then hang a left. If the water is much more than a trickle take the high approach. This route leaves the drainage approach just before you drop down into the wash after traversing the bench you can see from the car. Cairns head up the hill. It is a little steeper than the creek bed but a little shorter. Either way you go will take 20-30 minutes depending on what your conditioning is. If the creek is running getting to the Up The Creek Wall is best done from the base of the Control Tower. Drop down from the base of it maybe fifteen feet. At a belay seat turn left and follow the trail. It goes up and down a bit to avoid the thick stuff but only takes about 3 minutes to reach the cliff.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Air Break
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 59
Blood Book
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
Virgin's Airline
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Losers Weepers
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Flight Stimulator
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Don't Grab Here
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Black Water
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Finders Keepers
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Candy Man
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Sweetie Don't Bite
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Use It Or Lose It
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Skybox
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 20
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Tryptophandemonium
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
Where's My Paddle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Air Break
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blood Book
 59
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Virgin's Airline
 76
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Losers Weepers
 47
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Flight Stimulator
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Don't Grab Here
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Black Water
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Finders Keepers
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Candy Man
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sweetie Don't Bite
 22
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Use It Or Lose It
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Skybox
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof
 20
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tryptophandemonium
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Where's My Paddle
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
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