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Elevation: 5,700 ft 1,737 m
GPS: 32.35534, -110.71812
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,183 total · 240/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

This wall faces south and can be climbed on the coldest of sunny days. The face climbing is not as crimpy as Windy Point and there are a number of routes that climb through or around roofs.
The Control Tower is at the right end of the wall. It has a 5ft. roof with a crack through it. At least three of the routes involve surmounting roofs. The Up The Creek Wall is 100 yards past the Tower. The areas rock is generally good but it has a bit of fuzz still coming off. You do need to pay attention as there is some stuff around that you want to avoid. If the rock seems bad there is a solid hold to be found somewhere. 40 plus routes from 5.9 to 12-
Many of the routes anchors have leaver biners so all you have to do is clip and lower off. Two routes are 115 feet long and need a 70M rope. Both these routes have an anchor part way up with leaver biners on them so if you have a 60M rope you can still get down. A lot of the routes have leaver biners so you just have to clip in and lower.

Overhead topo for locating routes:
pikaconsulting.com/climbing… (PDF File)

Getting There Suggest change

SQ II Has directions to Kesslers Corner and the Twinkie. The milepost now is 8.6. This is a left hand sweeper that has a slow car lane on the right. Park off the road to the right or a 10th of a mile back at the Thimble Peak Overlook. A trail goes up the left side then hooks back right to the drainage getting you above the falls. If it is cold the rocks near the water can be icy. If it has rained a lot the water can make the approach a bit harder. If the water is barely flowing then hike the main drainage until you are just below the Control Tower then hang a left. If the water is much more than a trickle take the high approach. This route leaves the drainage approach just before you drop down into the wash after traversing the bench you can see from the car. Cairns head up the hill. It is a little steeper than the creek bed but a little shorter. Either way you go will take 20-30 minutes depending on what your conditioning is. If the creek is running getting to the Up The Creek Wall is best done from the base of the Control Tower. Drop down from the base of it maybe fifteen feet. At a belay seat turn left and follow the trail. It goes up and down a bit to avoid the thick stuff but only takes about 3 minutes to reach the cliff.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Trailing Edge
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Air Break
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 71
Blood Book
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 87
Virgin's Airline
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 52
Losers Weepers
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Black Water
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Finders Keepers
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 23
Candy Man
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 25
Sweetie Don't Bite
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Use It Or Lose It
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Skybox
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Tryptophandemonium
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Running With The Bulls
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 25
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
Where's My Paddle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trailing Edge
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Air Break
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blood Book
 71
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Virgin's Airline
 87
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Losers Weepers
 52
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Black Water
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Finders Keepers
 23
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Candy Man
 23
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Sweetie Don't Bite
 25
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Use It Or Lose It
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Skybox
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tryptophandemonium
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Running With The Bulls
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof
 25
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Where's My Paddle
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
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