Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Polk, Dan Frame, Sasha Binford (1999)
Page Views: 1,080 total · 8/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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16 Opinions

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Description

Very nice face climbing on edges and sharp features (the holds have not yet weathered to the rounded, slopey holds of the other routes nearby).

Distinct crux encounter up high--with the bolt at your feet. Sustained from the fifth bolt to the end.

Location

Right of Rubber Man--starts in a right-trending seam.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
excellent new route! Mar 16, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10b
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10b
This route feels a grade easier than Menage a Trois and at least two grades easier than Rubber Man...5.10a? Jul 28, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10b
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10b
I enjoyed this even more than Rubber Man. Surprisingly sustained climbing up high! Also a little bit longer than Rubber Man. Feb 17, 2013
DavidJr
Ventura, CA
  5.11b/c
DavidJr   Ventura, CA
  5.11b/c
I'm open to the possibility that I missed some beta on this route, but I spent quite a while falling and staring at the wall between bolts 6 and 7, and I do not think the boltline still goes at 5.10- or 5.10b. I'm thinking 5.11something. 11b? It's a combo of thin or slopey hands and mossy bad feet. It looks like alot of rock has come off this area recently, so maybe that's where the 5.10 feet went to. If so, there is a new crux and it is not well protected, but at least the fall is pretty clean. The climbing down low was really fun. Please set me straight if I'm way off here. Nov 17, 2014
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
 
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
 
Nope, it definitely 5.10. Just tricky. Nov 17, 2014