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Routes in Potrero John

Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cleaning Lady S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menage a Trois S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Miccis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potrero Traverse V2 5+
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Should I Stay S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Route On The Right TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Rose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Matt Polk, Dan Frame, Sasha Binford (1999)
Page Views: 959 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Very nice face climbing on edges and sharp features (the holds have not yet weathered to the rounded, slopey holds of the other routes nearby).

Distinct crux encounter up high--with the bolt at your feet. Sustained from the fifth bolt to the end.

Location

Right of Rubber Man--starts in a right-trending seam.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
 
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
 
Nope, it definitely 5.10. Just tricky. Nov 17, 2014
DavidJr
Ventura, CA
  5.11b/c
DavidJr   Ventura, CA
  5.11b/c
I'm open to the possibility that I missed some beta on this route, but I spent quite a while falling and staring at the wall between bolts 6 and 7, and I do not think the boltline still goes at 5.10- or 5.10b. I'm thinking 5.11something. 11b? It's a combo of thin or slopey hands and mossy bad feet. It looks like alot of rock has come off this area recently, so maybe that's where the 5.10 feet went to. If so, there is a new crux and it is not well protected, but at least the fall is pretty clean. The climbing down low was really fun. Please set me straight if I'm way off here. Nov 17, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10b
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10b
I enjoyed this even more than Rubber Man. Surprisingly sustained climbing up high! Also a little bit longer than Rubber Man. Feb 17, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This route feels a grade easier than Menage a Trois and at least two grades easier than Rubber Man...5.10a? Jul 28, 2010
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
excellent new route! Mar 16, 2009